tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79533196073267647632024-03-10T00:16:55.027-08:00American DuchessArticles, dress diaries, research, and tutorials for historical costumersLauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.comBlogger1435125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-27618872700814551402021-04-09T08:00:00.003-07:002021-04-09T08:00:00.219-07:00April Vintage Pre-Order is OPEN!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1029" data-original-width="1937" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_tarfKQZrPw8rJoAZWd0-vrX836gHsby5WvDa8OhDkAR0otXfDolP4HI-mtGpDMUaVq-sPyvu5rGLn6AqMfBSE-2Dzsf52XypzF2E4KGfB3g-umr-Wp7khXmkjyZt2sTfXmB_NGAZeKP/w640-h340/April21+Pre-Order+THEME+banner+set_announcement+banner+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I will admit I haven't been sewing much (Covid energy-sap), but I do have plans. Honestly all I've really been up to is -work- but at least it's fun work, getting so many new shoes sampled, photo'd, video'd, and ready to launch. We make *a lot* more styles and colors than we used to, so it's a big job.</p><p>So with that, I'll announce the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">April pre-order</a>. It's all vintage goodness.</p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Claire</a></span></u></b></p><p>This '40s standard oxford has been a top-seller since introducing it through Royal Vintage several years ago. I love this shoe because it's a direct repro of an original we have in our AD Collection, a cute little "Academy Girl" oxford.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnFppo36YebcQPVBcrWwixlLS0By1CHTHCliU0gyGlJAxbeVWOAJ30Xvb9YYtKXdRRfX2DJV8Zwh6UksXj9Q7iYxeR220PVhSNDDzm01FF65gbLJgRHun-cRwlXbCPK4SR62Y_orSKPE21/w640-h640/claire+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Claire has returned for the third time, now in new colors and with some style tweaks. We brought them closer to the original pair with a more structure toe and more curved heel.</a></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_LtPYQarwHLypbzv8sM0LYis73GmASdSnAgz7Ix0lw1_073kxVtEDB_Ts28uh4CkpTLWbVPvv3lGDsP3IQifIHMe7E6dcXl25HnfZ1S6kEKJyQhQrJQoVHq02myNSS3p57pUeOar-vhK_/w640-h640/1940s+oxford+original-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">This is the original pair in our collection - these are "Academy Girl" brand and *tiny.* It has been a challenge to get the lasts just right for this style in modern size and width.</a></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>We have the classic brown and black, and you all voted for two new colors - oxblood and navy. We've made a few refinements for Claire v.2.0 - the heels has more curve and the toe is a little sharper. This is a really good style for those of you with wide feet, as the ball of the foot is quite broad and toes round.</p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Evelyn</a></span></u></b></p><p>Another much-requested 1920s/1930s style from years back. We originally made Evelyns in tan/brown and navy/brown, and the tan proved to be incredibly popular. This season we've broadened out the color options voted on by the community and offer now five colorways.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitz2YTo3AfMqX3eQj3FyONch7wmpgBTer-veZtRI7HOvQoRtH6yHxXeYaH54AZwswt7ZUn7NJGFIiFe6XEQTWejR5C8eJhobJKK_Ipz1ycDIY4ljaj1aqgU83maeBNl69st6yFXEG3TF8r/w640-h640/evelyn+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">One of our most popular vintage styles - the Evelyns. We've done them in the top five colorways voted on by you awhile back. The only other update is the new heel shape.</a></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Evelyn is a really good all-season shoe. The canvas gives them a sporty look - don't be afraid of getting the textile dirty. A little spritz with the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/shoe-care/products/angelus-water-and-stain-repellent">Angelus water and stain repellent </a>will keep them looking great.</p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Hazel</a></span></u></b></p><p>A new design for this year, Hazel is a gorgeous 1920s and 30s pump. We developed Hazel from another original in the Collection, and took great pains and many iterations to get the new Spanish heel just right.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisk1YH6y32cewxBlOdy1fKq8Nr2p_MKRIgrlkwlsA4IYOaD5kvsABls-JcTivHtRC__i_BPwKU_zTCM9wiAoZ2fIuLHV3eXUybGs-8NvoUk4uerIYlFdCegsUdJv_Vx2G7H4-LyQEuvbB2/w640-h640/hazel+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">The new Hazel in five colorways. You can see the beautiful silhouette of the new Spanish heel. Also - bonus - the ribbons are removable.</a></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iClaTP8TsfRpMV0FvsiurInnHK05Y59V6W_OSg5c6UFFajPx0gfsjIu0plCSPJkqh7UiJla98Q-20Kc9jBrF-IjkKJa4cskWvNJNNp6MFlonVjIyJaMc-k1EeI3Y_a0MTwLHlBAlmnyu/s16000/86286618_194521301912619_349387334602457088_n+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Our original sample for Hazel - this one was a delicate silk satin, but other than switching the material to a much more durable and popular leather, we made no changes.</a></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Hazels have an almond-shaped toe and that characteristic high vamp, so they're a step-in pump but quite secure to walk in. The grosgrain ribbons are indeed removable; replace them with any sorts of bows you like to change the whole look of these versatile pumps.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Lulu</a></u></b></span></p><p>Lulu is our wildcard shoe, and it's easy to see why. These are some seriously eye-catching oxfords and are actually based on an original 1930s pair, though we've moved them a little forward into the late '30s and '40s with the chunkier Cuban heel.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPg6j39c5XSGFmkC16ZqwV4NVkD-1PhhdRATepEIu0Nso79pwr_by5BxF8vm2i_KIlTOdO9Pvq5ILRPJjbt7a9IpAPl66sHYqWSZNy_kO7EKknbQdmMXL-tKX7nAXx2XubW26cuTLdhU6m/w640-h640/lulu+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Lulu Oxfords in glorious colors. The white on the black, oxblood, and navy is a true bright white and will go great with white Spring and Summer outfits.</a></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQud8ZYHWEVxLDvSfHIcf6qVcVp_ODTHU9nmvGwwV96iSWPtcGqNIrP5e2uDCCixh9jqM1amssueQEhhppDgRzhuHs46YiGNcjONpUSxFFM0gZuj6wpNDwcl2-OdOg1YFf1Y1vcnRX7qG6/s639/1933-1939-English-hand-made.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="438" data-original-width="639" height="439" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQud8ZYHWEVxLDvSfHIcf6qVcVp_ODTHU9nmvGwwV96iSWPtcGqNIrP5e2uDCCixh9jqM1amssueQEhhppDgRzhuHs46YiGNcjONpUSxFFM0gZuj6wpNDwcl2-OdOg1YFf1Y1vcnRX7qG6/w640-h439/1933-1939-English-hand-made.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Here is the 1933-1939 pair the Lulus are based on. Look at that heel! This was called a "spike heel" in the period. We opted for the chunkier '40s repro Cuban heel. Source unknown.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>There are a lot of curves, bits, stitching, points, and magic going on with Lulu. We have four colorways voted on by you, and they're all amazing. If show-stopping footwear is your thing, these are the shoes for you.</p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Pre-Order is open through April 23rd, 2021</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">at AmericanDuchess.com</a></span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">$20/pair discount, unlimited quantities in each size.</span></b></div><p></p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-75897122089215902922021-02-26T06:00:00.002-08:002021-03-11T11:55:42.158-08:00The February 2021 Collection is Here - {Pre-Order Open!}<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOYFrf1BErwod-qkDk4TtR9gJ8fpbdrvELbobAffSx2Z26fPRtguTrDEwAp19Df6ra-vhDMAV3oYXzejrfziBxWixBzXYDoA8IOzDBJckVOYc3peXH95HLbpqkNV10RS1ovmQzbTmGVSE/s1937/Feb+21+pre-order+banners_announcement+banner+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1029" data-original-width="1937" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOYFrf1BErwod-qkDk4TtR9gJ8fpbdrvELbobAffSx2Z26fPRtguTrDEwAp19Df6ra-vhDMAV3oYXzejrfziBxWixBzXYDoA8IOzDBJckVOYc3peXH95HLbpqkNV10RS1ovmQzbTmGVSE/w640-h340/Feb+21+pre-order+banners_announcement+banner+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Time for the first collection of 2021!</p><p>This year, the big plan is to do a pre-order every single month through August (yowza!). Our <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">February collection</a> got off to a bit of a late start (thanks for slowing shipping to a crawl, Covid), but we're technically still in February.</p><p>What I am most excited about, and I hope you will be too, is that we have a bunch of our most beloved styles finally returning, but where we were limited on colors and sizes before, now we can offer *A LOT* more!</p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Pre-Order is Open</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>February 26 - March 12, 2021</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>$20/pair discount & Free USA shipping</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>www.AmericanDuchess.com</b></span></a></div><p>So here is what's on for the February 2021 pre-order:</p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">Dunmore 18th Century Shoes</span></u></b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2SKBHdubf5snPXbbmtH7qI2wFB5IK9Wqnq7OSKlo_94COFbt1mr5UAAfj8YXhkOe6XSZc1NLddHuGwS196IpOmaA40qZ4i8VG8cPCaBEoOXKcIadZvDvWMEP2WkqGpuUZBOsRZs6VfB3/w640-h640/med_res+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Dunmore 18th Century Shoes in five colors, all glorious</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><b></b></a></div><p>I've always been really proud of the Dunmore silhouette. Way back when, we developed this style with Colonial Williamsburg for that particularly exciting period of the 18th century - the 1770s through early 1790s.</p><p></p><p>Where the leather Dunmores were only available in <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-oxblood?_pos=5&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773274284182">red</a> before, we now have them also in <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-lavender-white?_pos=1&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773306495126">lavender</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-yellow-white?_pos=2&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773299024022">yellow</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-green-white?_pos=3&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773293748374">green</a>, and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-blue-white?_pos=4&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773302530198">blue</a>, quite the Easter egg basket of footwear!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-blue-white?_pos=4&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773302530198"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjJAcOQSutKQ2n7tBt9Auqjz58b_9Xa3XviqJ1sW78Z3YJxJ5ORkOOx6EFrVNHQVN6r9G-X-7apdmltgfpipXfPJcANwUkTydtw-JXlD1v-Uc7SO9i0R28IkBeGcZf6JXkEOyTOJZDIzgY/w640-h480/dunmore+feb21+flats+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/dunmore-18th-century-shoes-blue-white?_pos=4&_sid=7ea0c5a52&_ss=r&variant=37773302530198">This blue is just divine</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">Sophie 18th Century Mules</span></u></b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/sophie-18th-century-mules-green?_pos=2&_sid=bce28db11&_ss=r&variant=37773491962006"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHcMq6kCB_StdsFBM9OB00Q7oYlON4wYrYmb3kSpNL1RfNow597FKm6vf1qFwB1-0dQfqBT9X95gRWapG4Myp0w9cwZgrQXPeteTtroOPYWhXWaZ3W0vKGC-I34W-Vz2UvR6B1M998cyuQ/w640-h640/sophie+feb21+flats+%252817%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/sophie-18th-century-mules-green?_pos=2&_sid=bce28db11&_ss=r&variant=37773491962006">Sophie 18th Century Mules in the perfect Georgian green, trimmed in white</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/sophie-18th-century-mules-green?_pos=2&_sid=bce28db11&_ss=r&variant=37773491962006"><b></b></a></div><br />Backless slippers have gained in popularity over the past few years. We did a pre-order of the Sophies several years ago, but the factory that made them actually went bankrupt (as they were making them, omg), and it's only now that we're able to present these cuties again.<p></p><p>They're available in the original colors - <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/sophie-18th-century-mules-oxblood?_pos=1&_sid=bce28db11&_ss=r&variant=37773496909974">red</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/sophie-18th-century-mules-black?_pos=3&_sid=bce28db11&_ss=r&variant=37773396869270">black</a>, and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/sophie-18th-century-mules-green?_pos=2&_sid=bce28db11&_ss=r&variant=37773491962006">green</a> - and our new full size range of 5 - 10, 11 & 12.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkm7r54Icy_HMuED0HQ1GIzdyGv_qW9c44ClA3VlNoIzY4Fd3SNIyrueObmv9QLlY9G6kq0cASIxJqm4oOXFghgvYK5CabuvysT2i4DRAchPp3SZTn6eUvQssoA37iw1jnlRHn6v8Amthk/w640-h640/med_res+%25284%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">All the classic Sophie colors (and perhaps more on the way some day!)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">Renoir Mid-Victorian Button Boots</span></u></b></p><p><b><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/renoir-civil-war-button-boots-merlot-red?_pos=4&_sid=a06155f18&_ss=r&variant=37773228834966"></a></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0I_LOpSD__dRNG0vSwNJwkM8_fY3sz_qUgu7AvdDaSczWEXNVPeJmSzTN16ZVEnGLnH7pUjlw_T9vM6i-vZJoZpU9PIKW4TL66SIk33u13G49CM3-mw2gY05q6lBaNAbk9kIwnKs_KG8/w640-h360/renoir+feb21+flats+%252816%2529.jpg" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Be still, our mid-Victorian hearts - Renoir Button Boots in merlot leather</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">This returning mid-Victorian to Bustle Era boot has been updated with new buttons and an improved scalloped edge on the button fly. These are such a cute and crazy comfy boot that covers a pretty broad time period, from the 1850s through the 1880s.</span></div><p></p><p>We have them in <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/renoir-civil-war-boots-black?_pos=5&_sid=a06155f18&_ss=r&variant=37773189349526">black</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/renoir-civil-war-button-boots-brown?_pos=3&_sid=a06155f18&_ss=r&variant=37773235912854">brown</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/renoir-civil-war-button-boots-merlot-red?_pos=4&_sid=a06155f18&_ss=r&variant=37773228834966">merlot</a>, and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/renoir-civil-war-button-boots-ivory?_pos=2&_sid=a06155f18&_ss=r&variant=37773241221270">ivory</a> this season.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEB2TUeZ3BpX5yU8f19H1XMMfnFETz__Avg7GJ64_QWOfumILMPEKaIvR9vifaJyO9ntbkjzUasBXhCSI-vz3NN_ifY3raz2uPNyDnTAzp7Y29hyphenhyphenULsJuEWg6q3ROvNEJI3B-RT9aep3_3/w640-h640/med_res+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">The new Renoir colors are subtle and gorgeous - pair with just about anything</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b><u>Tavistock Late Victorian & Edwardian Button Boots</u></b></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/tavistock-victorian-button-boots-french-blue?_pos=4&_sid=c81c16c33&_ss=r&variant=37773205962902"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEgSp-upjjQeoyk8WDObkZuiknoeGrdNRPY_C0nlUeaiIwH-XlXa1QZZDlgMQIe8-8tY0v19qDtlIOTKMP9DPyj9LxYEr9gM7QWrxcX9dWvZ7xsC8GjLisH4D_oN4vgWhP0EzFpUGtgio/w640-h640/tavistock+feb21+flats+%252823%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/tavistock-victorian-button-boots-french-blue?_pos=4&_sid=c81c16c33&_ss=r&variant=37773205962902">Can't get enough of the dusty French blue on the new Tavistocks.</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Possibly our most popular boots ever, the Tavistocks have been updated and improved many times over the years. This time we have a new button style and a bunch of colors - <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/tavistock-victorian-button-boot-blk?_pos=3&_sid=c81c16c33&_ss=r&variant=37773191938198">black</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/tavistock-victorian-button-boots-brown?_pos=1&_sid=c81c16c33&_ss=r&variant=37773218578582">brown</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/tavistock-victorian-button-boots-oxblood?_pos=2&_sid=c81c16c33&_ss=r&variant=37773201375382">oxblood</a>, and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/tavistock-victorian-button-boots-french-blue?_pos=4&_sid=c81c16c33&_ss=r&variant=37773205962902">*the most* gorgeous dusty French blue</a>.<p></p><p>Full size range available on these - women's US 5 - 10, 11 & 12.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgoRLU8o2znmXinMkVI6WEUR5UJaQAapmBdypM1RetHoCmlM2bHbzmRIUAjLOM0i8G0rWV5RzjXNJykXwaiS8YFuZ8GW7S23GIcLhtIpbzHE1J0kc5Tc8sh-W233Yi77pL6bA3E-3KESC/s16000/med_res+%25285%2529.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">A versatile bunch - imagine these Tavistocks peaking beneath your gorgeous Edwardian skirt.</a></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">Mae Edwardian & 1920s Shoes</span></u></b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3TfyLKvXYneK5dnIW71qevdaSHl-FS7RgbWfQQGRN_mJ2ur5X1H_3nxAN6yL1-F7d9Z0fVeV4hU5HMt96tkdNO9Ii0FJ5ShdEGDlP4VETXVdMkSgEWab2LZRZFGwOvC135n2LPXoDhkA/s16000/med_res+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Mae Edwardian Shoes were made to be in lots of colors. Suede & Smooth leather, single tone this season. Just delicious!</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><b></b></a></div><p>This pretty little mary jane is the surprise dark horse. First introduced a couple years ago, Mae's popularity has only grown, and it's a style just ripe for a bunch of colors. We've done the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/mae-edwardian-shoes-black?_pos=4&_sid=a778f22b2&_ss=r&variant=37800475361430">classic black</a>, and also added <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/mae-edwardian-shoes-red?_pos=3&_sid=a778f22b2&_ss=r&variant=37800500101270">oxblood red</a>, <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/mae-edwardian-shoes-french-blue?_pos=5&_sid=a778f22b2&_ss=r&variant=37800555839638">French blue</a>, and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/mae-edwardian-shoes-green?_pos=2&_sid=a778f22b2&_ss=r&variant=37800541192342">evergreen</a>.</p><p>Maes are just gorgeous, and super comfy with that lovely Edwardian French heel. They're fantastic for 1900 - 1925.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2eMKL4RFUbXfW6xlsghZ-Q5sM7kr7Kux7RrCyCKVZ-neiKhiNiCrdmrP-D_ImE-LU4AgMiNyg1GjgRTt9zvXK09SrC0v0BT_DF3JpulPT2puU_SsbI0LRPlWHRASsEuQD84Mhp3yi55vL/s1000/mae+feb21+flats+%252831%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2eMKL4RFUbXfW6xlsghZ-Q5sM7kr7Kux7RrCyCKVZ-neiKhiNiCrdmrP-D_ImE-LU4AgMiNyg1GjgRTt9zvXK09SrC0v0BT_DF3JpulPT2puU_SsbI0LRPlWHRASsEuQD84Mhp3yi55vL/w640-h480/mae+feb21+flats+%252831%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's hard to choose a favorite color of Mae but this evergreen is high up in that running.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Pre-Order is Open</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">February 26 - March 12, 2021</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">US women's sizes 5 - 10, 11 & 12</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">$20/pair discount & Free USA shipping</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">www.AmericanDuchess.com</a></span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-46594164837554240372021-02-08T08:00:00.001-08:002021-02-08T08:00:04.115-08:00The {FREE} American Duchess Cape Pattern<p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Zb0Sx823OX2KxhUqNn-lsBEwYT3n0be/view?usp=sharing"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="422" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaf1h1MOVSXj6sZNXSEzEwo7ejoP-JIxgWtnW-mZVZmqu1jQIb_hotuz6Lmf3X0ZGxR5Ucd_PwpxJLRdBRx8GoIjGn6r7-wcE4737Gr87ojOFcVQ3-g-65uQlBCjFgbEEP8PvM83CTJOd/w530-h640/tumblr_mt653hgEDo1rhlcb9o1_500.jpg" width="530" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Zb0Sx823OX2KxhUqNn-lsBEwYT3n0be/view?usp=sharing">Click Here for the pattern</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p>Howdy! Since we put our Patreon to sleep, we needed to find a new place to host the <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Zb0Sx823OX2KxhUqNn-lsBEwYT3n0be/view?usp=sharing">#ADCapeCult 1910s Wrap Cape pattern</a>.</p><p>So it's going to be here! I have to host this on Google Drive, which means you will likely get a pop-up when you click "download" warning you that this might be hooky. I assure you it's not - it's just Google looking out for us.</p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Zb0Sx823OX2KxhUqNn-lsBEwYT3n0be/view?usp=sharing">Download, enjoy, and tag #ADCapeCult on Instagram!</a></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Zb0Sx823OX2KxhUqNn-lsBEwYT3n0be/view?usp=sharing"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="556" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxYUdna78J4A2hJKw2lKyglVor8QPbWslU18O9bmp29cirHwbWEViHGBRSGmYdAbHRmeDYcEkSQeY-ADdtHHB9OvXpBlTzH7TZtYX03zaBhmUVubOMe27nT5QBbPnmn6Xn8P-2HPKyB5V/w464-h640/nicole-wrap-cape.jpg" width="464" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Zb0Sx823OX2KxhUqNn-lsBEwYT3n0be/view?usp=sharing">Or click here for the pattern, too.</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-91774022677815603542021-02-03T12:38:00.002-08:002021-02-03T12:38:02.123-08:00{Video} Cake or Death - Marie Antoinette<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGDynEF9S4E" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgoWILxt4H7HhOYupdZUf5ncQGEJ6areFMcv8nOjxDPGw-EtVnuCpw8aZoBIqU1TaxoGl1Ag0vJS5lw8xa1Q4stG5aMHqlBJfvk0c1E4NM_fTykTPuOID1G59TICeZZH1TOhE838r2yzf/w640-h360/cupcake+still_1.110.1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>This is a bit of a weird one.</p><p>Last Spring, 2020, I made an attempt at Youtube, like SO many of us. I had an idea for a series of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGDynEF9S4E">cake-decorating-meets-interesting-historical-deaths</a>. Dark humor...and cake.</p><p>Even though I never carried on with the series (sorry, Charles I), and I kindof, uh, abandoned Youtube due to overwhelm, I'm kindof proud of this strange creation. I hope you might enjoy it too -</p><p><br /></p><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OGDynEF9S4E" width="560"></iframe></div><p></p><p>And the cupcakes were indeed delicious. ;-)</p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-38393811122772265752021-02-01T12:20:00.006-08:002021-02-01T12:21:34.888-08:00How to Care for "Velvet" Finish Sauvage LeatherLeather comes in many different finishes, from <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/pages/how-to-care-for-leather-shoes">smooth</a> to suede to velvety. It's important to know how to look after each of these leather types to keep your shoes looking great.<br /><br />Many of our shoes are made with what is called "Sauvage" leather, an un-treated, grain-dyed Italian leather with a soft and velvety feel. This leather is found on most colors of Bernadettes, Gibsons, and Tangos. See below for the full list.<br /><br />Sauvage leather has a tendency to scuff and show scratches and marks. Some colors of this leather, such as tan, will show these marks more than other colors.<br /><br />If you have a pair of any of these, please read on for special care instructions.<br /> <br /><b><u><span style="font-size: large;">Cleaning Scuffs & Marks With Vinegar</span></u></b><div><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0450/5721/2566/files/sauvage_leather_care_w_480x480.jpg?v=1611968854" /><br /><br /> <br /><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0450/5721/2566/files/sauvage_leather_care_w-2_480x480.jpg?v=1611968944" /><br /><br />1. Mix a little vinegar into water (1:3 ratio), then dampen your cloth and squeeze out the excess.<br /> <br /><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0450/5721/2566/files/sauvage_leather_care_w-9_480x480.jpg?v=1611968967" /><br /><br />2. Very lightly rub on and around the scratched area, using light circular motions. There will be a little dye transfer onto your cloth. Be sure not to press too hard or rub one area too much, or the area may be lightened permanently. Be careful not to oversaturate the leather.<br /> <br /><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0450/5721/2566/files/sauvage_leather_care_w-10_480x480.jpg?v=1611969005" /><br /><br />3. Wipe off any excess water. Sauvage leather is absorbent and will darken when wet. Leave the shoes to dry - this can take quite some time. Do not use heat or place next to a heat source.<br /> <br /><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0450/5721/2566/files/sauvage_leather_care_w-12_480x480.jpg?v=1611969022" /><br /><br />4. The leather will return to its normal color, and the scratches will be greatly reduced.<br /> <br /><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0450/5721/2566/files/sauvage_leather_care_w-8_5d036717-04eb-4c3e-8885-0455092dde03_480x480.jpg?v=1611969037" /></div><div><br /></div><div>5. As a last step, lightly brush with a soft horsehair shoe brush.<br /><br /> <br /><u><b><span style="font-size: large;">Which Shoes Have Sauvage Leather?</span></b></u></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/bernadette-edwardian-oxfords-blue-black?variant=35772457582742">Bernadette blue/black</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/bernadette-edwardian-oxford-cognac-black?variant=35772458172566">Bernadette cognac/black</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/bernadette-edwardian-oxfords-tan-brown?variant=35772461744278">Bernadette tan/brown</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/bernadette-edwardian-oxfords-tan-ivory?variant=35772463087766">Bernadette tan/ivory</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/bernadette-edwardian-oxfords-ivory-black?variant=35772458336406">Bernadette ivory/black</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/gibson-edwardian-shoes-green?variant=35772444311702">Gibson green</a><br />Gibson maroon<br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/gibson-womens-edwardian-shoe-tan-brown?variant=35772133834902">Gibson tan</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-ocean?variant=35772450570390">Tango ocean</a><br /><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-green?variant=35772450078870">Tango olive green<br /><br /></a><b><u><span style="font-size: large;">What NOT To Do</span></u></b><br /><br />Like suede, Sauvage does not respond well to any oil-based polishes or waxes. We do not recommend applying shoe wax or mink oil to these shoes, as these products can irreversibly darken and stain the leather, and will also change the finish.<br /> <br /><u><b><span style="font-size: large;">What To Expect With Sauvage Leather<br /></span></b></u><br />Italian grain-dyed leathers are intentionally designed to show character in the leather and age through use. Velvet finishes like Sauvage are more susceptible to this because they do not have a topically-applied wax or finisher. As a result, scratches, marks, and rubs will not completely disappear. Lightly cleaning with vinegar will reduce them but not eliminate them. <br /> <br /><b><u><span style="font-size: large;">FAQ</span></u></b><br /><br /><i><b>What Happens If My Shoes Get Wet?</b></i><br /><br />If your Sauvage shoes get wet, blot them with a clean cloth and let them air dry completely before wearing again. The leather will be darkened by the water, but will return to its normal color when dry.<br /><br /><i><b>How Can I Protect My Shoes If I Can't Use Shoe Wax?</b></i><br /><br />Silicone sponges and sprays, such as the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/shoe-care/products/angelus-water-and-stain-repellent">Angelus Water & Strain Repellant</a> or <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/shoe-care/products/foot-petals-shoe-shine-sponge">Foot Petals Shoe Shine Sponge</a>, do not adversely affect Sauvage leather. These will add a little shine but not remove the soft feel of the leather.<br /><br /><b><i>I Don't Like How The Finish Has Aged - What Can I Do?</i></b><br /><br />A shoe repair shop that is familiar with this type of leather may be able to re-spray or re-color your shoes. Inquire with your shop beforehand.</div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-86242410163313953772021-01-27T08:30:00.001-08:002021-01-27T08:30:06.222-08:00My 2020 Costuming Year in Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy-xIUe7V93PGcg93PqjoqJIBIeNgmNUZXJ4FElFmOjLVvGqYVAzuJAfGyLBLEw2znX_w1Q42lkmFAjuwaSsYrkwuLRQjYiNd2miagFD08x21WLudH9LeIfoSZef6k2GNcZ0K_uKryogdU/s1200/1930s-ufos-april2020-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1083" data-original-width="1200" height="578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy-xIUe7V93PGcg93PqjoqJIBIeNgmNUZXJ4FElFmOjLVvGqYVAzuJAfGyLBLEw2znX_w1Q42lkmFAjuwaSsYrkwuLRQjYiNd2miagFD08x21WLudH9LeIfoSZef6k2GNcZ0K_uKryogdU/w640-h578/1930s-ufos-april2020-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>This has indeed been a weird, challenging, rough year. I think I've left my house, like, 20 times max for 10 months. During this time I feel I sewed very little, but when I look back on what I've made I'm quite surprised by how much I accomplished, particularly with nowhere to go.</p><p>It's perhaps because of being home significantly more, although motivation, inspiration, and energy were and are at an all-time low. Still, sewing helps look forward to and believe in a better future, so with that, here are the things I made this year, somehow...</p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">January</span></u></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/01/the-1630s-dutch-thang-badonk-donk.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKOIQ1OG1VC4LKwj9un1599JTsUYcPkTV2SC2JAAdEpow274qFxLZb9FrB3657CbdiXX6P1XvIft8xxrgT72MWqOcTahX-qwbdSZ6eeasjButee-gSJuQExPS_XHEXmhG-Xqm92ahKl65/w480-h640/1630+dutch+prog+1-21-20-8.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>I made an enormous <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/01/the-1630s-dutch-thang-badonk-donk.html">petticoat for the 1630s outfit</a>. Not very impressive, and only one piece of an ensemble as yet unfinished, but it technically qualifies as a finished garment. Also - dat ass.</p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">March</span></u></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/03/the-1630-thang-finishing-bodies.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzd6Y6OT713xA4h8YuLuGKNqHzFGyb8ZUk_dLWLlRUueRaZL_uI-U8JRsbdaOMu-DB0ow1DWPO2WEPkka2siaRZZuf77DPL2MgZUsUOMg6xAH9DOStKV_DW1QTuq6YGK2MZ_9V682QdQHR/w480-h640/1630s+dutch+prog+3-10-20-22.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>After returning from Portugal and Spain, I finished the <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/03/the-1630-thang-finishing-bodies.html">1630s "lobster-bumble-bee" bodies</a>. I *love* this project and its crazy construction, and I really need to pick up the additional ensemble pieces again. </p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">April</span></u></b></p><p>By this time we were all fully working from home. For whatever reason - maybe trying to recapture some sense of control - I tackled a whole bunch of UFOs, including these two 1930s dresses:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/finished-vintage-dress-ufo-1-simplicity.html"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="782" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZkUWjyoO4xyqHOdYKYPDpzf-dHLfGSDSd9IVm74LMbMdzv2313QZMGd4AHbp5m3ILz5kfJIIw2uu-no6x4lgitcFND7d7gKIJpSEe0b85K2c_JQcbp5u5bDH6gsk_d8LGwWCQaH7HpsVt/w418-h640/1930s-ufos-april2020-7.jpg" width="418" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/finished-vintage-dress-ufo-1-simplicity.html">Simplicity 8248 (modern)<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The above is <a href="https://amzn.to/2IWdBcl">Simplicity 8248</a>, one of those modern "rereleased" Simplicity patterns that are troublesome to fit. I had finished this a few years ago and looked like a grandma in a sack (and not in a cute way), so I took it partially apart, narrowed the shoulders, removed the collar and faced the neckline into a new shape, raised the waist, and shortened the skirt.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/finished-vintage-dress-ufo-2-simplicity.html"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="950" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b1eJK385y56viBTJY_Niy9JmpiL3SFoondXBhdYoor2tNsl_z70W6iGY652fyAxWHRn-Lg-Mkp9I3o1NCsG6xvDUDih5IQcfJXo9WJXcHegXsfvbpwZTl_Ms2I4HAEqS3Mpp4VAbMjN2/w506-h640/1930s-ufos-april2020-11.jpg" width="506" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/finished-vintage-dress-ufo-2-simplicity.html">Simplicity 3280 1930s frock<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The next is original vintage Simplicity 3280 - late 1930s pattern. I adore original vintage patterns because they - gasp! - actually fit without having to remove 9 inches of easy. There were no issues with this dress; I'd just never finished it. I'm glad I finally did, though, because I adore it.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://youtu.be/7qGQ_0UI998"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1108" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibRO7V4Cptw5F8ge0vvEb2tFJ-kqE-LJqBhwH1eQduC0p7qNokqW01qhFTwMiykhtljfWWjRrvHtUHa-QDuTIO2dnU_7tEDcZMORKBLDJ_ABpXnzsqDP_9O8QtmnLZ2mmUoSabKOo9HqNQ/w592-h640/1890s-shirtwaist-photos.jpg" width="592" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://youtu.be/7qGQ_0UI998">Truly Victorian TV494 1894 Blouse.<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Lastly for April was this 1890s linen blouse - <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv494-1894-shirtwaists/">Truly Victorian TV494</a>. I love it, but struggled a bit with it, and honestly don't wear it all too often...it's a little short and a little constricting, but it's pretty fabulous style-wise. Looks great with a vest, too. I made a video about making this dress too, which you can <a href="https://youtu.be/7qGQ_0UI998">watch here.</a></p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">July</span></u></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/07/1760s-robe-la-francaise-finished-video.html"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1283" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcL-yb0INhZXjX-IrFiXr66Vou4YHs-DJRGOvUC3Z9GWnP5nIHBhO43IvHPZJC2lJUNUydbFkU1ECVwnRAG06LAT_bUPCV_JW50cFuejvtpclSpud-Wq8nAKlgPGfdK1O4HpJ_qWE5XuwM/w548-h640/1760s+lauren+sacque+W-18.jpg" width="548" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/07/1760s-robe-la-francaise-finished-video.html">Simplicity 8578 Robe a la Francaise<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><center><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ACSksQmUERw" width="560"></iframe></center>
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The next finished garment was another UFO - the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-8578-18th-century-robe-a-la-francaise?variant=35802371293334">1760s Robe a la Francaise from Simplicity 8578</a>, with some alterations and corrections. I'm super-duper proud of this gown, one for actually picking it back up and pushing through to the end (so.much.trim!), and two because I just feel so so so pretty in it. It's my gown for Someday-Versailles, and I can't wait to wear it out!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><u>August</u></b></span></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/08/belle-epoque-wardrobe-1890s-linen.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1016" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-mQe8iVurRgCm5Z10lQH5PVDl1WPid5E59GRarmEEEFe3ARAKWTqlerFNxbzAOC-xr_-L-l4M7SEn-geKVwLECJ-SNtiJdNnAgDRw893wITNobyZg81pWd-BWSEqME1OLY4xfGSoR5MI/w434-h640/1890s+linen+jacket+fin+w-17.jpg" width="434" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Another UFO! This <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/08/belle-epoque-wardrobe-1890s-linen.html">1890s linen jacket</a> had been sitting around for over a year. Made from Simplicity EA258101 Edwardian duster - shortened - I practiced many new-to-me tailoring techniques and am quite pleased with the result. It's waiting for Spring of the AfterTimes to wear out in public (if I can muster that much fabulous)<br /><p></p><p><b><u><span style="font-size: medium;">October</span></u></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/11/gown-in-weekend-1790s-vigee-lebrun.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1200" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYl8SADiJnB-nm9sFv0QE7_Go9_i9O5c7xq74WEDlUCoe7cjWIfyzt_mfIDMflECXgcNUOXWtQSz1KbwtguveLkuy6V98StWo3ZW2EQFMN9zNNolm6D3CnuF5P4PVcZ3AeA50aiV2RIqMy/w640-h424/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>A totally-new make of 2020, I threw together a black silk <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/11/gown-in-weekend-1790s-vigee-lebrun.html">1790s "Vigee-Lebrun" round gown</a> from <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-s8941-regency-round-gown-dress-robe?variant=35802387153046">Simplicity S8941</a> in one weekend (though fixing the sleeves the following the week), for Halloween. This was also an opportunity to test out and make tweaks to this Simplicity pattern, so I can share those notes with you all. </p><p>------------------</p><p>As for the rest of the year 2020 - November and December, I worked on a few things but didn't complete anything. Those projects will have to wait for next year!</p></div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-23352658891522887612021-01-20T08:30:00.001-08:002021-01-20T08:30:01.085-08:00Old Projects I, Uh, Forgot to Post About<p> With all the updates to Ye Olde Blogge, I was going back and checking the "Projects" page when I found several costumes I finished but never actually posted about. The horror! So in the interest of being thorough and not disappointing readers who may be a-Googlin' on to old dress diaries, I have written the final posts (backdated). Here they are:</p><p><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2015/01/1740s-scottish-tartan-outfit-done.html">1740s Scottish Tartan Outfit using Simplicity 8161</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2015/01/1740s-scottish-tartan-outfit-done.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1013" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjetVtg6d_Rf3d8E2wy5vnXbELDWSTneWyDs11gBLEYf1AOENVejL0BYXozW5SEVzpfimXASh_lhS69gJrTr9nc-TpK7wF-7LZf6Cb9FMFdh_TMZwZlQ1wIQSCoC_9e9swhk5v0YpywMjqB/w360-h640/1740s+scottish+jacket+2016-41.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br /><p><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2014/12/1919-red-russian-winter-suit-done.html">1919 Red Russian Winter Suit</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2014/12/1919-red-russian-winter-suit-done.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="900" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9mOCvA2gLSjdPsHD8C1XLD_kB6bzOVkI14HpZt9A365jkfDItbGgkCjPVOfjZwm6Z0zgndYKTvruGeLVnGjCDh8HJDrWrzmKXOmk1HRIQ9F20BVTWFKBD7trdFvMJE0Kc6g4wfmcE4XP/w640-h636/1919-suit-w-seabury.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1760s%20Silver%20Ghost%20Francaise">The 1770s Silver Ghost Francaise</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1760s%20Silver%20Ghost%20Francaise" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9TMnHm8kp3QnpdsA_Ljqb51XIyOPLSsCCU_TJgvxhjOvxs5PyZEMcFHvg7SUqMqEJ4RH7Vr3IrUNnBFAqr-MohC7fFb351FQDHDnszHAb8uVkz7weEyhhOegr2U6U2zvk678UNBsk4zn9/w480-h640/20150801_223534.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>There, even though these are really old costumes and projects, I feel better now that the project page is a little more complete and a little less "what ever happened to..."</p><p><br /></p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-1176532408952490242021-01-13T09:00:00.004-08:002021-01-13T09:00:06.631-08:00Lessons of the Volante - So Far<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGG7vQfSPREH4zrNLaUWDS2ADYZbTNPOXDuo19prVPxEepF-8qVM3X1AgLizvt0nIhuBsdfYy1hnx6ZU3kOaK3XdLWcTQ_VYUd9a8spwvjoh_C_IOL8EpAz5NZZL59XmCCZ5ri8GkZWLF/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGG7vQfSPREH4zrNLaUWDS2ADYZbTNPOXDuo19prVPxEepF-8qVM3X1AgLizvt0nIhuBsdfYy1hnx6ZU3kOaK3XdLWcTQ_VYUd9a8spwvjoh_C_IOL8EpAz5NZZL59XmCCZ5ri8GkZWLF/w480-h640/robe+volante+dec2020-13.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Du....Du Hast...Du Hast Mich...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>There's something about pleat-to-fit garments that both attract me and drive me bonkers. I think it's a combination of no two surviving examples being the same and my desire to fit everything skin-tight and wrinkle-free. Like the Polonaise, the Robe Volante just ain't havin' any of that.</div>
<br />
Volantes are transitional garments. They're bridging the gap between earlier robes/surcoats and the more recognizable and streamlined Robe a la Francaise. Depending on where you land in the date range, and in Europe, every Volante is cut and pleated a little differently, which makes creating one both more "free" creatively and more maddening because there are too many options.<br />
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So far in my volante project I've discovered a few things that I hope will help anybody working on a similar early-18th century project.<br />
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<u>Silhouette - Bell Shape vs. Oblong Shape</u> - As a general statement, in the earlier part of the 18th century the English favored the round hoop and the French the oblong pannier. There is a distinct difference in the cut of volantes depending on the intended understructure and it's not always obvious in the few pattern diagrams. It's also not always discernible in museum mountings of original garments because many seem to be displayed with a certain amount of wonkiness. Portraiture gives a much better idea of how the gowns were worn and also reveals a plethora of shapes between a round silhouette and a wide oblong one.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzHLTdQy6smqcnQxyrlUPJE2jHJYPajW2nmGIwrZj1yhAZXlLqe6KdbP7d7dT0cg5jlbx2y8WnG6TAyXt8mJPl-38JDy9MdGFawcSbIc1p5awWc8VgVsvZx8tsOK0j2sr92xNLoAVi4qE/s2000/The+Met+Panniers+c+1750+1973.65.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1614" data-original-width="2000" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzHLTdQy6smqcnQxyrlUPJE2jHJYPajW2nmGIwrZj1yhAZXlLqe6KdbP7d7dT0cg5jlbx2y8WnG6TAyXt8mJPl-38JDy9MdGFawcSbIc1p5awWc8VgVsvZx8tsOK0j2sr92xNLoAVi4qE/w640-h516/The+Met+Panniers+c+1750+1973.65.2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pannier, c. 1750 - The Met, 1973.65.2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Hoops are very different in the first 50 years of the 18th century. Some go straight out from the hips and then down while others are more domed or bell-shaped. Some appear to be round hoops that were then tied into oblong shapes. Some are very short and some down past the knees. All of these have quite an impact on how the sides of the gowns were cut and pleated.<br />
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<u>Shaping at the Sides</u> - Which leads into a little mythbusting. Volantes only *look* like big comfy sacks. They actually do have shaping at the sides, though. They all have a side seam that then fans into pleats for the skirt. Some have additional tucks/pleats at the side back and side front, hidden beneath the front and back drapery.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoOsk8A2EAEZDC0FSP7KXJTW0rqcwXMvrOcEJ4MI5UaBG_P7OiTRs4E6zfC0OXIEHUQWEvNN-Ezy9pR_VVgVhH0EascdA-LBhMs0mac8X-PgVp2UBxzGRS_FSorpu_JmGCeNvPUoy1zcX/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoOsk8A2EAEZDC0FSP7KXJTW0rqcwXMvrOcEJ4MI5UaBG_P7OiTRs4E6zfC0OXIEHUQWEvNN-Ezy9pR_VVgVhH0EascdA-LBhMs0mac8X-PgVp2UBxzGRS_FSorpu_JmGCeNvPUoy1zcX/w480-h640/robe+volante+dec2020-15.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here we have the gown side seam with the pleats fanning out, and to the right of that, the side tuck in the front, a common feature of transitional gowns of this period.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uujpTuyd8nCMhjdjKgBkh1NcP5GFOTZAxIXX9PpW05UusnwRRSsyEOrQaI7CJ6psXQvuNs9Hvi5hj8aXYW8tferZ_11AmJxk8WyusTwFk4TwVHGa5TE_upmRw1v-n4x5vyXWDYmku_4A/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uujpTuyd8nCMhjdjKgBkh1NcP5GFOTZAxIXX9PpW05UusnwRRSsyEOrQaI7CJ6psXQvuNs9Hvi5hj8aXYW8tferZ_11AmJxk8WyusTwFk4TwVHGa5TE_upmRw1v-n4x5vyXWDYmku_4A/w480-h640/robe+volante+dec2020-17.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see how the side-front pleat holds the side of the gown to the body more closely.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><u>Lining or No Lining or Partial Lining</u> - With shaping and pleating this usually means at least some sort of lining. Several sources note a fitted lining or a half-lining. The examples in Cut of Women's Clothes and Patterns of Fashion 1 both have fitted linings, though they're both split at the center back. One example from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Trouvais">Trouvais on Etsy </a>blessedly lets us peek at the inside shows lacing strips at the side front and side back only and the Volante in National Museum of Scotland is at least partially unlined. Again - options, infuriating options! I've chosen to do a fitted lining and sew the side seams of the fashion fabric to it.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjakwhyX7MMAjOVEtO5OQ_TWJZejVCLdy-csX1GAf5qpLzfstapChbWRfeF8Jw-y7puv-myhtKxo61FOG0K-Xo3uk7lpwQEfj0BrwpNUiUFwk18mj-z8548pcDapMR0sV2fCikJ_BKq6dlJ/s846/sacque+trouvais+etsy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="846" data-original-width="564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjakwhyX7MMAjOVEtO5OQ_TWJZejVCLdy-csX1GAf5qpLzfstapChbWRfeF8Jw-y7puv-myhtKxo61FOG0K-Xo3uk7lpwQEfj0BrwpNUiUFwk18mj-z8548pcDapMR0sV2fCikJ_BKq6dlJ/w426-h640/sacque+trouvais+etsy.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Trouvais gown with lacing strips at the back and front. Though not sewn together at the center front skirt, this gown is from the same transitional period and very well could have started as a Volante and become a Francaise, which I believe was the fate of most Volantes. This gown doesn't appear to be on Etsy anymore, but you can visit <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Trouvais">Trouvais</a> there.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><u><br /></u></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyN39HPkwz46Honwy6bRCe9OocgTet7f3fF6-YCnYolrSrZT1PIAfvcCh9rELTIrT-VdT_bxPi2eeahtbD60oDBAWqOIlCjMi5t-AcfXrOaFKVDtop-42eljFd2BwpHjHkz-kyG9ZQighu/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyN39HPkwz46Honwy6bRCe9OocgTet7f3fF6-YCnYolrSrZT1PIAfvcCh9rELTIrT-VdT_bxPi2eeahtbD60oDBAWqOIlCjMi5t-AcfXrOaFKVDtop-42eljFd2BwpHjHkz-kyG9ZQighu/w480-h640/robe+volante+dec2020-11.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My front and back lining pieces - ties at center back, and lacing strips on either side of the front.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fdaX8vlkJO2gl13k92-U_6lcziVjN84QZ0QwrCM_37Bt1QngGKP3H9peOpxyOknLXrp1R9soOuOHRrTkMCnhy9FGA5UCBdsYRnZgznphsdUuhNd90nZGkDwUUUnqR4NIHlVn5KaLicJa/s1500/volante+gown+6-10-20+w-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fdaX8vlkJO2gl13k92-U_6lcziVjN84QZ0QwrCM_37Bt1QngGKP3H9peOpxyOknLXrp1R9soOuOHRrTkMCnhy9FGA5UCBdsYRnZgznphsdUuhNd90nZGkDwUUUnqR4NIHlVn5KaLicJa/w480-h640/volante+gown+6-10-20+w-4.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lining for the center back, under the pleats. I referenced the split top and the ties from Patterns of Fashion 1 and Cut of Women's Clothes.</td></tr></tbody></table><u><br /></u></div><div><u>Skirt Gores</u> - One thing is very clear: there is a *ton* of fabric in these gowns, and that was precisely the point. Fabric on Volantes is often highly decorative and expensive, hence the origami-esque folding, pleating and *not* cutting. That being said, many Volantes have gores in the skirt at each side to provide enough fabric to get around the hoop and also allow for a train. The width of the gore at the bottom depends on the breadth of the hoop it's the be worn over. Over the years I've learned never to skip the gores if you want a train - they're necessary!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghC_8uY5zB8I3T9RVw1Yr_pbnBOcKaHtE06sxswKKZinKhgcOypyrs_AvgSkBuRTzILmo8IJkzO21a76W0vYigpnsvjBWeh0E8j426GNxGtQ13rZYyQiAvbtmk4ehyphenhyphenbLQ0XJRMpnjvydjM/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghC_8uY5zB8I3T9RVw1Yr_pbnBOcKaHtE06sxswKKZinKhgcOypyrs_AvgSkBuRTzILmo8IJkzO21a76W0vYigpnsvjBWeh0E8j426GNxGtQ13rZYyQiAvbtmk4ehyphenhyphenbLQ0XJRMpnjvydjM/w480-h640/robe+volante+dec2020-18.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big, meaty gores on each side of the skirt, and to be honest, I needed to put even more fabric in the front and back of this gown.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><u>Back Pleats & Front Pleats</u> - The pleating patterns for Volantes are all over the place. There are some that have the "typical" sacque pleats that seem to become codified later, but plenty of extants have varying pleat arrangements. There is a correlation between the back and the front number of visible folds, though - for example, if there are three in back there are three on the front and they match up at the shoulder seams.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopFFPJKzfjedcLpXrmI4pgmhrlHLUmNW2rVJ8_Xo6kkQtz0shFYDBZqvJbW5KIfZjQJE7qPXHvA7ltAwEi3WlR70iCeyt_5QcrHF_HYAfN7PCyVWAU0Ndx2vgyeVs89C56Lwy4E3uWtQA/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopFFPJKzfjedcLpXrmI4pgmhrlHLUmNW2rVJ8_Xo6kkQtz0shFYDBZqvJbW5KIfZjQJE7qPXHvA7ltAwEi3WlR70iCeyt_5QcrHF_HYAfN7PCyVWAU0Ndx2vgyeVs89C56Lwy4E3uWtQA/w480-h640/robe+volante+dec2020-8.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front and back pleat intersections - I didn't get them exactly matched up, but close.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhah3E9VMSzkUQqku84x9s3pE0b48wzdt2ANu3b574T5D2kx50cBjZWyFUv45S2KcatlK0svon6OzxM8mFtouhyfLxAPlt8yO1_b_mEGiVkr78qgzzNW-yxSkW1MNpcJ-K4H9m8i40bWlgj/s1800/robe+volante+dec2020-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhah3E9VMSzkUQqku84x9s3pE0b48wzdt2ANu3b574T5D2kx50cBjZWyFUv45S2KcatlK0svon6OzxM8mFtouhyfLxAPlt8yO1_b_mEGiVkr78qgzzNW-yxSkW1MNpcJ-K4H9m8i40bWlgj/w640-h480/robe+volante+dec2020-16.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trouble. Right here in River City - stitching down the front and back pleat intersections through really, really thick layers. I elected to use a technique from the Isabella gown and turn under the back allowance and top stitch rather than the front.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br />
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Those are just a few notes I have for Volantes so far. I'm not done with mine yet and I already see where I've made some mistakes, but I'm trying not to beat myself up too much about it, since every Volante is different. If mine comes out a little bit more Robe a la Francaise-y, it just places it later in the timeline.<br />
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Now to go wrestle with front pleats...!<br />
<br />
<br /></div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-43273516372847929292021-01-06T09:00:00.004-08:002021-01-06T09:00:10.597-08:00Pattern Notes & Adjustments for Simplicity S8941<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-s8941-regency-round-gown-dress-robe?variant=35802387153046" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="792" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhiQ1TKMwF5smWMG1aN-I1RJBtYyI11L61vVO2S-QrfHg9G16YKWSdKMHRpL3hxq8JbYj_chm11M-MnW82S5GpUGfW9VCswzP1Zgqc10t02cxdLcv0I-td-A7U_LjABASSIdDlSHDxiJ6B/w640-h494/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>As promised, here is my really big post of pattern notes and adjustments for <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-s8941-regency-round-gown-dress-robe?variant=35802387153046">Simplicity S8941 1790s to Regency Round Gown and Open Robe pattern</a>.</p><p>This pattern was originally designed in the 1790s style, with a peaked back and full gathered skirt. As is Simplicity's preference, it was designed to be worn with a modern bra, but can also be worn with a 1790s or Regency corset.</p><p>This period of dress is an "easy" one to pattern because there is no tricky waist fitting - BUT, there is still the bust, sleeves, and overall length to consider. So let's get into how to make these adjustments, along with a few others. I've made some handy diagrams - </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuTVb04EFfBJc_Yi-mgzK7OGtxW_tEgG15v_3-XOtjYjir3RkzVvR5twVQ8GgL1NRbF8sJUaurmxQXk_t7uvC9eeDHRGjBYJ5xj068UWVBgX-lMsJtdSw1P_hs5gURhvJ67rwr95MKag9L/s792/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="792" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuTVb04EFfBJc_Yi-mgzK7OGtxW_tEgG15v_3-XOtjYjir3RkzVvR5twVQ8GgL1NRbF8sJUaurmxQXk_t7uvC9eeDHRGjBYJ5xj068UWVBgX-lMsJtdSw1P_hs5gURhvJ67rwr95MKag9L/w640-h494/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The biggest check and adjustment many report for <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-s8941-regency-round-gown-dress-robe?variant=35802387153046">Simplicity S8941</a> is the bust depth for the round gown. Though 1790s necklines were *very* low, the amount of decolletage you wish to show will depend on your bust size as well as personal and design preference. For my <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/11/gown-in-weekend-1790s-vigee-lebrun.html">1790s Vigee Lebrun round gown</a> I wanted a higher neckline, so I made the above adjustment for a look closer to the original portrait.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeoW6anwLrSnqt3oAANIEZ7H9wsKvWUKAg1wv212M1U3oHXl9QGuvmswbQQISN-c6Fs3dcOVI9g-Gkpg2EVKWZFpm0sKHKuVPQurAYQf0q9Aj23yYe30KaKvsfvrOnKmhJhQ-SQowZz7aK/s792/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="792" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeoW6anwLrSnqt3oAANIEZ7H9wsKvWUKAg1wv212M1U3oHXl9QGuvmswbQQISN-c6Fs3dcOVI9g-Gkpg2EVKWZFpm0sKHKuVPQurAYQf0q9Aj23yYe30KaKvsfvrOnKmhJhQ-SQowZz7aK/w640-h494/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The next adjustment was for skirt length. Simplicity patterns are sized for about 5'3" to 5'4", the average height of an American female (apparently.). I am 5'6" so I needed to add on, plus I wanted an epic train. It's an easy fix, shown above.<div><br /><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LhBqJBJWjvcXgyOQofbmIT1YVickkTNBlAi5W9apH5SFsOqz_hvgJIsq2q1Kne4iYs4RUXwpS89eX7RRzWwEH6cDcpbJtJomHDCz-arLyXB6FEOUmFtTImlv6SLNmMkcQYfkxrys4aWi/s792/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="792" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LhBqJBJWjvcXgyOQofbmIT1YVickkTNBlAi5W9apH5SFsOqz_hvgJIsq2q1Kne4iYs4RUXwpS89eX7RRzWwEH6cDcpbJtJomHDCz-arLyXB6FEOUmFtTImlv6SLNmMkcQYfkxrys4aWi/w640-h494/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Above is one design adjustment and one pattern fix. The design adjustment is to straighten out the back if you don't like the 1790s peak. Not all '90s gowns had that peak and later Regency gowns lost it as well. I will admit that it's a pain to keep a sash in place (I added thread loops to the center back on mine), and much easier to keep it tied with a straight back.</div><div><br /></div><div>Also in relation to the peaked back - there is a flaw in the pattern for the straight skirt without the train. To account for the center back peak, you need to add about 1 - 1.5 inches to the center back at the top. The fix is shown above.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzi_n8MBMcbe9nbLHhD3Hp0o5W3hiSCa9vCBgRgaqRIGFjxbtmdl-8XA_0OMHV_rwbRR-w64lG63xFvmokybE9Qmfr_R_ZbO9_K9PT-XTY4tuD6YHuyTU-_mUvxDza0EgcbEgOS2iCuGwB/s792/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="792" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzi_n8MBMcbe9nbLHhD3Hp0o5W3hiSCa9vCBgRgaqRIGFjxbtmdl-8XA_0OMHV_rwbRR-w64lG63xFvmokybE9Qmfr_R_ZbO9_K9PT-XTY4tuD6YHuyTU-_mUvxDza0EgcbEgOS2iCuGwB/w640-h494/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div>Time for sleeves. We all have different length arms, so here's how to adjust the sleeves to fit you better. The key here is that the top of the dart should be right on your elbow. If it's too low (as seems to be the case for most), shorten the upper part of the sleeve as above. Do this for both the short and long sleeve options.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CkqIhDY9L3jrrcc1JSLpkfKLpe8NN9TyeiGOyAa2G-ODYkWqTMwHlMyl94mZXKhHpaCSxgR9ZrIIlxBNtgSXSR2_FyUh74TJJ0qMI_-x9hgZ1y47VGtqvJ7iSd43pumepGKUcUpCxZEA/s792/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="792" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CkqIhDY9L3jrrcc1JSLpkfKLpe8NN9TyeiGOyAa2G-ODYkWqTMwHlMyl94mZXKhHpaCSxgR9ZrIIlxBNtgSXSR2_FyUh74TJJ0qMI_-x9hgZ1y47VGtqvJ7iSd43pumepGKUcUpCxZEA/w640-h494/American+Duchess+Simplicity+S8941+pattern+notes-06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Lastly, for those of us with narrow shoulders, here's a multi-staged adjustment. This one works best for when you are fitting shoulder straps and sleeves on the body, in the 18th century method (see <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide">The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty</a> for step-by-step instruction with photos). It's important to add shoulder strap length as well as extra to the sleeve head to accommodate for setting the shoulder straps further back.</div><div><br /></div><div>---------------</div><div><br /></div><div>I hope the above fixes and adjustment help! We want this pattern to fit everybody, but as with all patterns some tweaks usually need to be made for your unique shape.</div><div><br /></div><div>For more information on how I made this gown, with all of these adjustment, by hand in one weekend, check out my <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/11/gown-in-weekend-1790s-vigee-lebrun.html">dress diary on the 1790s Vigee-Lebrun gown</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you'd like this post and want early access to others, as well as a downloadable PDF of these diagrams and fixes, please consider <a href="https://www.patreon.com/americanduchess">joining our Patreon</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-39231809566363477142020-12-23T09:00:00.001-08:002020-12-23T10:17:42.811-08:001833 Plaid Silk Gown + All the Accessories - Done!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rTPZjQ_wErf6mZ0iMCnKK1eAVAntK4LwG7W5KJaTH8l7sAd_BcBOCq9-NQYQ8ERviKjLh6q-T8ukT-n-DMhGUB97-3y0pzfXfFz1Mq6dSr51dClnkcTkCYmfrtOqDg6oblx7ZXjQ3Hma/s1220/dickens-fair-2018-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Lauren Stowell (American Duchess) wears an 1833 gown and accessories" border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1220" height="578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rTPZjQ_wErf6mZ0iMCnKK1eAVAntK4LwG7W5KJaTH8l7sAd_BcBOCq9-NQYQ8ERviKjLh6q-T8ukT-n-DMhGUB97-3y0pzfXfFz1Mq6dSr51dClnkcTkCYmfrtOqDg6oblx7ZXjQ3Hma/w640-h578/dickens-fair-2018-13.jpg" width="640"></a></div><br><div>I can't believe I never shared *finished* photos of the <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1830s%20Plaid%20Dress">1833 plaid day dress</a> with all the accessories. I went through the whole making of it but, like...never showed the finish. That's a cardinal sin of costuming blogs!</div><div><br></div><div>Better late than never, though - and the <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1830s%20Plaid%20Dress">link for the project</a> will be complete now too.</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYcOgkvhh6IrwbFF3_M_c550DwWjdSjb_vO87EMqmZKUeT_YCl0WlbxCDLnXPBLFpe58ac9XWlpibr6Cuazs968KnMor1vtmb2XM-0PUjlqVePEFgc95PE-fb1gD452X4ZsIE3PrDahnzD/s1800/1830s+dress+summer+w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1203" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYcOgkvhh6IrwbFF3_M_c550DwWjdSjb_vO87EMqmZKUeT_YCl0WlbxCDLnXPBLFpe58ac9XWlpibr6Cuazs968KnMor1vtmb2XM-0PUjlqVePEFgc95PE-fb1gD452X4ZsIE3PrDahnzD/w428-h640/1830s+dress+summer+w.jpg" width="428"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo was obviously taken in Summer (2020) when I had a chance to wear this gown again for an 1830s silhouette Zoom party. It is still one of my favorite costumes ever and shall have many years to come, as the cross-over bodice is so adjustable.<br></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br></div><div><u>To recap the making of:</u></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2017/10/what-ive-learned-about-1830s-in-275-days.html">What I've Learned About the 1830s in 2.75 Days</a> (Research)</li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2018/11/an-1833-ish-dickens-fair-gown.html">1830s Inspiration & Underpinnings</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2018/12/1833-plaid-dickens-dress-progress.html">1830s Patterning & Construction - Bodice & Skirts</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2018/12/1833-plaid-dress-sleeves.html">1830s Sleeves - Patterning, Construction, & Free Plumper Pattern</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2018/12/my-1830s-bonnet.html">My 1830s Bonnet - Covering & Decorating</a></li></ul></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivBoPvgfy1vHjRy8dpXzKap4EHrrUpIfU6QUtjS2VKwoflrs5It14lZSY005diHXGleKKnfEdr-r8uB0BiZmdX01qr4YrPoF5wHWaMzZtBXT7OFItskhbo336VG0zxzYZGE6mMBVRJ0SOv/s1100/dickens+fair+2018-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1085" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivBoPvgfy1vHjRy8dpXzKap4EHrrUpIfU6QUtjS2VKwoflrs5It14lZSY005diHXGleKKnfEdr-r8uB0BiZmdX01qr4YrPoF5wHWaMzZtBXT7OFItskhbo336VG0zxzYZGE6mMBVRJ0SOv/w632-h640/dickens+fair+2018-15.jpg" width="632"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Dickens Fair 2018 - the accessories (millinery) are really important to completing an 1830s look. Pelerine, belt, large buckle, gloves, muff, bonnet. </td></tr></tbody></table><div><br>I don't have any photos or posts about making the canezou/pelerine. I apologize!</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgltnrtogeGQD7fbnI7z6hhL1cH7nccclHhv0kU_7RNGHeFVqoJ1eBrhL-i1C-KVdidNo6pIcLGC0n5gqsDUSeWuPC4V2JAm9_LkZiNsuaGx1J_IRR9p56N2q_kEV1RiaFycrjfUV_3vDOV/s1616/DSC00358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1616" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgltnrtogeGQD7fbnI7z6hhL1cH7nccclHhv0kU_7RNGHeFVqoJ1eBrhL-i1C-KVdidNo6pIcLGC0n5gqsDUSeWuPC4V2JAm9_LkZiNsuaGx1J_IRR9p56N2q_kEV1RiaFycrjfUV_3vDOV/w428-h640/DSC00358.jpg" width="428"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pelerine is made of several different piece of vintage whitework voile salvaged from christening gowns and aprons. The belt is a length of velvet ribbon and the buckle is from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/EnsemblesOfThePast">Ensembles of the Past on Etsy. </a><br><br><br></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1ziVdWLkS2sr3vugu3YokLaRuH_3xfUcBIutY8hli-mIxIacq8WFUZisxxKZvMC6qWD6XuQdC3apxgK_bnY18dXptc1XbSTsNG5ojFW2mselMAx4GfpzG1wtigB4CJv7zqfHbqOwnMHl/s1000/1830s+plaid+dress+deets-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1ziVdWLkS2sr3vugu3YokLaRuH_3xfUcBIutY8hli-mIxIacq8WFUZisxxKZvMC6qWD6XuQdC3apxgK_bnY18dXptc1XbSTsNG5ojFW2mselMAx4GfpzG1wtigB4CJv7zqfHbqOwnMHl/w640-h426/1830s+plaid+dress+deets-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640"></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo amuses me because it makes the gown look tiny. Here's the whole thing laid out without the millinery piled on top What I love about the early 1830s gowns is that the basic bodice and skirt are really simple. Then it's the insane sleeves that take it *there* followed by the fluff-splosion of millinery. Just keep piling it on!<br></td></tr></tbody></table><br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1ziVdWLkS2sr3vugu3YokLaRuH_3xfUcBIutY8hli-mIxIacq8WFUZisxxKZvMC6qWD6XuQdC3apxgK_bnY18dXptc1XbSTsNG5ojFW2mselMAx4GfpzG1wtigB4CJv7zqfHbqOwnMHl/s1000/1830s+plaid+dress+deets-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br><div><br></div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-79133111225183300202020-12-16T09:00:00.001-08:002020-12-16T09:00:08.313-08:00The Medieval Gambeson as Winter Historybounding Jacket<p>We all *love* historybounding - wearing historical garments in modern contexts, mixed with modern dress or styling in some way great or small. It's "secret" history...the muggles see an interesting jacket, but YOU know (and WE know) it's actually a 17th century doublet, or an Edwardian duster...or in this case a medieval arming coat.</p><p>I've heard this time of year referred to as "Han Solo Season," which always makes me laugh. It's the time of year when (at least in the 20teens) skinny jeans with boots come out, paired with a puffer vest over a white Henley.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c0/67/13/c06713832048b6192e3739f41ab03ec8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="680" src="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c0/67/13/c06713832048b6192e3739f41ab03ec8.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I mean...it's still historical, recreating costume from a long time ago in a galaxy, far, far away, right?<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I do indeed own all of these things...but in the interest of oddity, I've upgraded my puffer vest to this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Uj-yv2o_VXugn3uQdbu1zvLxT_9ookl2l3N8TgmVhUqxUGJ1AoJwIP9GPyoFcGU9UFaIsp9nDO2m6SyyUedZaQEc8f8ENXKUJd36afI9r6LgYE8lzxIy0CiECRQxLzAlEyheOgjC06nA/s1263/IMG_20191030_191430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1263" data-original-width="1263" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Uj-yv2o_VXugn3uQdbu1zvLxT_9ookl2l3N8TgmVhUqxUGJ1AoJwIP9GPyoFcGU9UFaIsp9nDO2m6SyyUedZaQEc8f8ENXKUJd36afI9r6LgYE8lzxIy0CiECRQxLzAlEyheOgjC06nA/w640-h640/IMG_20191030_191430.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>This is the <a href="https://armstreet.com/store/armor/two-piece-linen-female-gambeson-the-dark-star">Armstreet Dark Star ladies' gambeson</a>. It's a two-piece quilted linen garment made to go under medieval-friggin'-armor. The vest part is super comfy (although mine was a little too big) and looks good over a sweater (or that white Henley). My favorite thing about it is the round-cut skirt, which gives it that extra-interesting shaping beyond a modern straight-cut puffer vest, and also accommodates lady-booties.</p><p>The second piece - the sleeves - is a short under-jacket that laces up. It definitely takes some swagger to wear it on its own. Of note, it is quite bulky and is cut in a "T" shape, kindof. I'm sure it's accurate, but it takes some getting used to. This set is sold together but also you can get the pieces separately.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://armstreet.com/store/armor/two-piece-linen-female-gambeson-the-dark-star"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="533" height="640" src="https://armstreet.com/catalogue/full/two-piece-linen-female-gambeson-the-dark-star-9.jpg" width="427" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://armstreet.com/store/armor/two-piece-linen-female-gambeson-the-dark-star">The sleeved bodice for the gambeson.<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The ladies gambesons now come in a bunch of different colors. Some have different fastenings - mine has buckles. Some are cotton, some linen, some wool. You can see them all <a href="https://armstreet.com/store/gambesons-padding/">here</a>. Most of them are on sale right now too, but if you're thinking of getting one give yourself plenty of time as the shipping from Europe takes quite awhile. </p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-66584779341234148152020-12-09T09:00:00.001-08:002020-12-09T09:00:11.861-08:00The Pincurl Diary - How to Do 1930-50s Hair for a Whole Week<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWc4zGQ6hN0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lbBduoYO5dEgIYERTrk69bfH2FUeDTNsLRXQnMZBT-tbXl6b3-2UBrMTlRrNI-UlDBE7ILgCpt4YiwXzucXZ16xBtfe_XVrelOmrWFjdW8yWMqEvqqJqdyPUhQuB6tYpSj4wB7-4t0sC/w640-h360/pincurl-diary-thumb.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>How remiss am I in never posting this video I made earlier in the year. This is a tutorial of sorts for how to set wet-set one's hair and then maintain it dry for a whole week. It's for shorter hair, and my hair is very fine, very straight, and will not take a perm, so hopefully this video is helpful for others struggling with technique, maintenance, products, and texture -</p>
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</center>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-1719440758170266152020-12-04T09:00:00.001-08:002020-12-04T09:00:04.528-08:002020 Holiday Shipping Dates<p> Important announcement! Here are the shipping deadlines for this holiday season - USPS:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="800" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY1LLyUiQdirocxgtP9GdeX6puyoh_GF3mscNLcsYzEUCU192bw7vVYvplcRwE7P8wu0ofJCebF5L7ypZ9a3zM9VZ7pdomDKS-WmmjaQTEaqkXjNv-YMHV_S-fiMT9RCVGHdGozvhlhWv9/w640-h442/2020+shipping+deadlines-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="800" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFztUw8NMbigH-X68awm2z1S3I2gWz_NDCmgmHr7mzXLhl55LfKN3NWNQZcd5Tmzenq5Ea98bO4ac8uDTgx3Pb_n1g4amRhR5xwAjnGDPh-kMWdBWIBahlBlsmCKiTsLxL9ZjRvv1xbg1U/w640-h442/2020+shipping+deadlines-02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We recommend <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/">getting your orders in</a> a few days before these dates, so we have time to pick, check, and package them up. Also, USPS has been struggling a bit this year and the holidays adds additional pressure, so the more time you can give yourself the better. USPS won't guarantee delivery dates because of Covid-10, etc., but these are the estimated deadlines.</p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-61975436011075765022020-12-02T09:00:00.000-08:002020-12-02T09:00:02.401-08:00How to Fix Funky Points on 18th Century Stays<p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRA2NjYn6pmiKg5spJZ1IoE_tneZrwprCsys1Nec9SJD2274Zb58OVlRST9ym3PxuMNesL5jlc8uKtPUerWte7X_ergjIIKH_TW8bb0vn10Zxc_eb1XS0T76h64lE_moFYI1j83_ZB1BS4/s620/petticoat-over-stays.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="349" data-original-width="620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRA2NjYn6pmiKg5spJZ1IoE_tneZrwprCsys1Nec9SJD2274Zb58OVlRST9ym3PxuMNesL5jlc8uKtPUerWte7X_ergjIIKH_TW8bb0vn10Zxc_eb1XS0T76h64lE_moFYI1j83_ZB1BS4/s16000/petticoat-over-stays.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>See those points on the front edges of the stays, at the bust?</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></p><p>If you've got a pair of 18th century stays that lace at the center front, either fully or partially, you may have noticed those funky points that curve upwards at the bust.</p><p>They're weird and annoying - they show their funky pointy selves when you wear the laces anything other than fully closed.</p><p>Luckily, though, theses are very easy to fix.</p><p>Many pairs of extant stays don't actually have a straight-across neckline. This is particularly visible in this pair:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158256"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="677" height="640" src="https://collectionapi.metmuseum.org/api/collection/v1/iiif/158256/335760/main-image" width="542" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158256"><i>The Met, 1740-60 - you can see here how and extra piece was added in at the upper center front, and the neckline is in quite a deep curve, almost a V.</i><br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><p>When the pattern is flat, it makes sense to draw the neckline straight, but our bodies are curved, and depending on one's bust size, that convex curve can be quite arced.</p><p>So here's how to fix it - just cut them off. When flat, this will look like a slight "V" but when worn, the neckline will straighten out.</p><p>If you're unsure how much to slice off, put your stays on, lace the center front to where it's comfortable, and draw a line right where the points need to be reduced.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6pSsxUxEE1icYJXQGGklyJj66jDBTXM8agq_CQqZxZmwoUq4GlkXKHymfY0-1tjgq2fouhv4kXu1CdPiGAmVONNXadbuEW_z3nSQKb2xGwqiD6lJyMOKh97AFMKRPHon6dhCD0vQWxVbr/s454/stay+points+diagram-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="419" data-original-width="454" height="590" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6pSsxUxEE1icYJXQGGklyJj66jDBTXM8agq_CQqZxZmwoUq4GlkXKHymfY0-1tjgq2fouhv4kXu1CdPiGAmVONNXadbuEW_z3nSQKb2xGwqiD6lJyMOKh97AFMKRPHon6dhCD0vQWxVbr/w640-h590/stay+points+diagram-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bye, Felicia</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>If you've already bound your stays, unpick the binding and peel it back. Cut those points off, and re-stitch the binding. You shouldn't need to add any additional binding.</p><p>Done!</p><p>This little weirdness happens particularly on the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-8162-18th-century-underpinnings?variant=35802354548886">Simplicity 8162</a> and the <a href="https://www.scrooppatterns.com/products/augusta-stays-1775-1789">Scroop Augusta Stays View A</a>, but worry not! Now you know how to fix it for that perfect pair of stays.</p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-16355707167204201152020-11-27T08:00:00.001-08:002020-11-27T08:00:00.591-08:00Our Silver Bells Sale is OPEN<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNv342FNm9PhedCbAxiHeld1O_GC27l9gd5z_tSJsa2pZeKMxFmvJALhVwW_QF_mRWb9Rg9rQmQQvL2AWOXQajRQu-tITiu3o84sXckk35YRelJrlzZrkW51pMK31o1UzPZaZGc3W_-9DY/w640-h640/square+sales+announcements+shop+now2-02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Here comes the sale announcement for our <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/">Black Friday-to-Cyber Monday</a> annual sale. Here's what we have for you this year...</p><p><b><u>COUPONS!</u></b></p><p>We're offering six coupons for all sorts of things - free stockings, free buckles, book and pattern combos, free buttonhook. You can choose which you'd like to use, but please note our website only accepts one coupon per transaction. Have at it!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbNzbRSAB_WRAFtMLWJxUlRzYlkHCJMJxxpNeLQi0o4mEDS5sbDnTBGV6Dzcf-ST3PQC7uugqnbRKSirSo57tsKIA8sXqL-GMQxnd85fYVqTfYp_TBQl9kRTaS2fX0xu9_VxAer9Vlh0j/s2048/coupon-all6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1364" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbNzbRSAB_WRAFtMLWJxUlRzYlkHCJMJxxpNeLQi0o4mEDS5sbDnTBGV6Dzcf-ST3PQC7uugqnbRKSirSo57tsKIA8sXqL-GMQxnd85fYVqTfYp_TBQl9kRTaS2fX0xu9_VxAer9Vlh0j/w640-h426/coupon-all6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click to enlarge<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b><u><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/clearance-sale">Clearance Shoe Styles</a></u></b></p><p>As we transition fully to our new factories and shipping system, it's out with the old and in with the new. This is an opportunity to get a smashing deal on many of our remaining older shoe and boot styles. Most of these are end-of-line and priced accordingly, but we *do* accept returns on them in case they don't suit or fit.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/clearance-sale" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1921" data-original-width="1081" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DMGXi05cS6RNNX2NPTHiLwDY6Vbo20N_8LTXlVDfqZiuX-pd47uTPoUJc011bYhLls_0m3W66hzS0X9gJoyI4n_wQ_dEyxwBZOPry1g-IIt3kXarIdWHa6bdmvMc9Uje61_3AUJD5wUr/w360-h640/IG+story+sales+shoes-02.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><p><b><u>Imperfects</u></b></p><p>We have a very small smattering of Imps. They'll be gone in a day, so if you've had your heart broken that we sold out of red Emma Regency boots, for example, here's a chance to pick up a pair of slightly scuffy ones for a song.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/clearance-sale" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1051" data-original-width="1200" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYcmZmJT7-xWNzQT6MlikZDSBZLVgdHJRNwvn9DxW18YaGY5hYdMVgoOXg2bqZMN1hyphenhyphenP_hn_pWfvncfS6JAMuVVMqSdYlTP2zNP1OwQpGlqrcRxyRru0MLWyAYeKRCUaJ6Fer_2dwdoPv9/w640-h560/emma+red+floor+W-14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The Silver Bells Sales is on</span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b>November 27 - November 30</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>at</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/">AmericanDuchess.com</a></b></div></span></b><p></p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-71618146847839766722020-11-24T10:50:00.000-08:002020-11-24T10:50:18.367-08:00UPDATE: The Scandalous Tango Boots!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-black?variant=35772449554582" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-SaNQl7tar3KuNp7FN7xyV2hiPoKhgPHdf_-kD_SqukSi3Hop8Nsji-uHA3Ph8tLqH3VZZwFsrxjPlZpTdkPdIfYIvPa4O19eFh824dMbYi34-GL89SDAy6ekOcFLhxSk7AEsERuGIM5/w640-h640/tango-boots-edwardian-1920s-black-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Around the time of the turn of the 20th century, a new dance craze swept the Western world. The dance was risque and immensely popular, first introduced to Paris by the sons of wealthy Argentinian families traveling abroad.</div>
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The Tango, that seductive Latin dance, became a phenomenon by 1913, and was celebrated throughout the 1920s and 30s, with music, events, and of course fashion.<br />
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Where footwear is concerned, the Tango had its very own shoe style, a lace-up boot or bootie designed to catch the eye and show off the legs and colorful stockings of the lady dancing such a sensuous dance.<br />
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However, this wasn't the first time this style of shoe was seen, though in its Edwardian and Jazz Age form they were sexier than ever. Here's a look at the evolution of what we call Tango Boots...<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/197617"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="560" src="https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/collections.lacma.org-images/remote_images/ma-86739-WEB.jpg?glYX.8gQGZWF32moL5e.2Zw61qNpSRBo" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/197617">LACMA, c. 1818<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>These black shoes are from 1818, but their influence was in Greece and Roman antiquity, not South America. The lacing is no less striking and interesting, which paired well with the shorter skirts worn in the late 18teens and 1820s. While the reference was different, the idea was the same, to show off a ladies' ankles whilst dancing. (<a href="http://collections.lacma.org/node/197617">LACMA, 1818</a>, M.2000.10.2a-c)<br />
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<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/168435"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/31.18a-b_CP2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These silk evening boots are from the 1860s, and would have showcased a beautiful design on the front of the ladies' stockings. Again, these are for evening attire, dancing, and formal occasions, not for daywear. (<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/168435">The Met</a>, 1860-69)<br />
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<a href="http://www.silkdamask.org/2013/12/is-there-app-for-that-wedding-dress.html"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_k3EXW2tKuLWB1NCcyw6g78ogZ0ZHRIY6NCJJyDRITtwllRu6NEdq19DTNefnDnsCSp6_88iLjakKstqOeDfAGVMNJyjEhqF_00YswsAl0lV6SWwSgVw1R4r3jwJ1kRGXkSd5zeVy6LM/s640/BbN3KHdCYAAdqRz.jpg-large.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This lace-up shoe is a wedding boot from 1879, made of ribbed silk and embroidered and beaded. This type of shoe seems like an interesting choice for a wedding, but not when you think of it as "lingerie." The idea that nice Victorian women would never allow their ankles to be seen is complete nonsense! Shoes like these were definitely meant to be seen, along with the flamboyant stockings worn with them. Of course it would make a gentleman's heart leap to think of untying the complex laces of these booties, which make a rather obvious reference to other lace-on garments she is wearing. These boots play in perfectly to the ritualized disrobing and consummation of the marriage on the wedding night - they are a "gift" to the new husband. (Image from <a href="http://www.silkdamask.org/2013/12/is-there-app-for-that-wedding-dress.html">Silk Damask</a> of a wedding shoe in the Clarks Shoe Museum, UK)<br />
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<a href="http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/sgc-cms/expositions-exhibitions/chaussure-footwear/english/exhibition/cfam/ws.html#"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-xeXMGBZghb_nV-fda12MGBpLBhXiFHAYSbs24gsrlXrUs02U94_DuoPXDuH-8MtDGBx7QOCZQ2WCciEgo9jdfalbbWE3Uyp_ILW1z1aYIQNKN1cVHLEYVxORjDtCW2vX4oqkMCLXhyphenhyphenc/s640/canadian.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
As we near the end of the 19th century, cutwork, strapwork, beading, and lacing becomes incredibly popular on women's shoes. Once again, the modern idea that Victorian women were demure as concerns the flashing of leg is simply wrong - these strappy late 1880s boots are not fetish boots, but everyday wear. Even <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1219">children were wearing strappy boots</a>, and as women gained more freedom in their lives, so did their fashion choices. (<a href="http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/sgc-cms/expositions-exhibitions/chaussure-footwear/english/exhibition/cfam/ws.html#">Virtual Museum, Canada, 1885-1890</a>)<br />
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Now we get to the really "wild" footwear of the 19teens, shoes and boots that are inspired by and made for dancing the Tango.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/156262"><img border="0" height="554" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/61.226.7a-b_CP4.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/156262">The Met, 1918</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1235"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXmdsktFFngYwjUlK54DA00cBI85nvHXwo-wSnslHCM_My-c8-epJ8xx0BcaKP_xs6uQ00IE1Mv9xvb9nXJ4vMw4xNThxFguHmloNCPWGcbKSQtfhDr1z_H8QhW7VAqT5tpBTDtaGnpupt/s640/shoe+icons.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1235">Tango Shoe (low top), Shoe Icons, 1912-15</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=11083&auction_file_id=23"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/23/223/0223.jpg" width="503" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=11083&auction_file_id=23">August Auctions, 1890-1920</a></td></tr>
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Just imagine these boots in gilded leather, shiny silk, and bright colors, with beads and laces and embroidery, glinting in the low electric lights, flashing here and there while dancing the Tango. They're seductive and interesting and not at all repressed.<br />
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Of course, this doesn't mean that people were not shocked by this dance (like most things that first come through Paris). In the TV series <a href="https://vimeo.com/98250741">"Mr. Selfridge" (Season 2 Episode 2), the Tango is introduced to respectable ladies and gentlemen in London</a>, who react rather accurately for the time.<br />
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But they do accept it, and it becomes a huge dance craze, and surprisingly, a fashion craze that we still have today. Tango boots, though called all sorts of other names now, are still being worn in various incarnations, with the same idea of attracting attention to the legs. And the way we react to the modern boots below is how people reacted to the "old-fashioned" boots above - scandalous!<br />
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<a href="http://raspberryglow.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Gladiator-heels.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="http://raspberryglow.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Gladiator-heels.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUw4RvHjYzqcbRJF9YNFDy3GSUKvXYZAetpshtPCSNFqY_HGs2vqUWhuqlIPLK64OeeDXJl6TskdRmKpcOK5DLHFuHTckCU8sjzMI-U-N7QFgA1XJBlosBomf1Le2XCYoVP8VF-w_jyn1-/s1600/24c0dbc605d202f7a88f8abc72dade86.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUw4RvHjYzqcbRJF9YNFDy3GSUKvXYZAetpshtPCSNFqY_HGs2vqUWhuqlIPLK64OeeDXJl6TskdRmKpcOK5DLHFuHTckCU8sjzMI-U-N7QFgA1XJBlosBomf1Le2XCYoVP8VF-w_jyn1-/s400/24c0dbc605d202f7a88f8abc72dade86.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miss L Fire "Everdene" boots</td></tr>
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<br />Look familiar?<br />
<br /></div><div>// 2020 UPDATE//</div><div><br /></div><div>We have re-released the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots">Tango Boots</a>, due to popular demand. The winning colors this year are black, green, ocean blue, and oxblood red. Our new Tango Boots are all-leather with that gorgeous 3" heel and are made in Portugal. You can see these beauties at <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots">AmericanDuchess.com</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-black?variant=35772449554582" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Pdj60r_7rZgj85_RZI3ZaCLIO9oLVEhEjIDRT5amjzLcYqmZeoaQBJ0TDJaM6ezerefa0B13KW7RLqKQ58qupPNct-Zy-xHyb_FG5rqrpqRtwFio1mL1YOmxg8NiXGvKjaup_zPUIufw/w640-h640/tango-boots-edwardian-1920s-black-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-green?variant=35772450078870" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRcvDhE-8I2CX8yM1URgiXEwW3ZO3qA0a1ZyASuldTSYfN4omiiyD0gK_jM7rsL8tQMJckVu1V30kVUH7Kntd7EOL5VxzY-FI75eEnN1SfAf6G-qtg18xrTT18qXB8kupD8WoodTe5P28/w640-h640/tango-boots-edwardian-1920s-green-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-ocean?variant=35772450570390" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDpZE8jhXHLaPuSq4rata27I_6rbBiEjd9oUmzZNk5J3RO5bZhHBXLCPLM1cvQJOarbvdmGzHqW2pzUbftnOJI_cqvmsovmmlsSCASxdpXatf_RYWlKhoNTAvxhzE9JTVqskUVu3B852Y4/w640-h640/tango-boots-edwardian-1920s-ocean-blue.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/edwardian-shoes-and-boots/products/tango-boots-red?variant=35772452929686" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwN-WXeuJihUhLwP5qmzzRypYNWgxN-4erceRhIOOK4HBDNRyRxJCwGrusRd9HpWYYJm25bN2ppQZAUvFxb6e4f7tsNY43SP1dtm4hNck9x76FbnB4lt1FfCZVpkbEHYTW_bMxGvSbZo2y/w640-h640/tango-boots-edwardian-1920s-red-9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09008240537371936468noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-88284586423144901992020-11-23T11:54:00.005-08:002020-11-23T11:54:57.942-08:00Well Don't I Feel Foolish...<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR38jDd0PT1tDEKAOPxafMB39DeeRgLS5C-NGJQuz9NhRTPvX-glJxnBK65czSNEbZEGCDg9kCj3Ju03B1DChoWVBtFtp4ZC4Xw1M-NRakWaYqbhf-yj6q76hpvdJcvKt_9FpGJ8lcaTsL/s2048/outtakes+4-19-17+W-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR38jDd0PT1tDEKAOPxafMB39DeeRgLS5C-NGJQuz9NhRTPvX-glJxnBK65czSNEbZEGCDg9kCj3Ju03B1DChoWVBtFtp4ZC4Xw1M-NRakWaYqbhf-yj6q76hpvdJcvKt_9FpGJ8lcaTsL/w426-h640/outtakes+4-19-17+W-20.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /> I've been updating my blog theme and messing around in the (new-ish) Blogger admin, breaking stuff, and I noticed in the comments tab a *whole bunch of comments* waiting for approval.<p></p><p>Dang, and here I thought ye olde blogge had just died and nobody read it anymore! Turns out a setting got turned off somewhere along the way and I haven't been receiving comment approval emails.</p><p>LOL.</p><p>I have to laugh at myself. But I'm also REALLY SORRY for never answering anybody's questions!</p><p>Issue fixed. I promise I won't be absent in the comments anymore, now that I can actually see all of yours!</p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-90423869022346860402020-11-21T11:00:00.001-08:002020-11-21T11:09:10.974-08:00 (More) Dress Form Hacking - Literally<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7OwmvXdVWQpp0Z99CzYaU8Uh_J7mb5Xhl5VXhzRF5HGycd-rP8ZCKOeUYX83jeQsN2F_ROwzHLfBbR56u4xzCwQDFITLa97cFIfG-cRRxxKdDxzGIwcJNLtBK4hEUUNswcSv4Na-fpsVc/s1200/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7OwmvXdVWQpp0Z99CzYaU8Uh_J7mb5Xhl5VXhzRF5HGycd-rP8ZCKOeUYX83jeQsN2F_ROwzHLfBbR56u4xzCwQDFITLa97cFIfG-cRRxxKdDxzGIwcJNLtBK4hEUUNswcSv4Na-fpsVc/w480-h640/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Marking how much of the shoulder needed to come off to match my shoulder width from base of neck to shoulder bone.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Blogs may be dead, but I'm still holding out (like an old fart) that people are looking for googleable-*readable*-referenceable info on the internet, so here goes.</p><p>As we go along as historical sewists, the saga of the dress form develops. We've sliced off chests, whittled away waists, padded, adjusted, drawn on, and generally hacked our dummies into workable forms that can be corseted and altered to get *close enough* to the historical silhouette needed to build a period gown.</p><p>One of my challenges I've realized in only the last few years is shoulder width. I have ridiculously narrow shoulders, and most modern dress patterns are too wide. Puff sleeves draw particular attention to this, as the puffs fall off my shoulders rather than sit up all cute-like.</p><p>My dress form also had shoulders a bit too wide, about 3/4 inch on each side. I regularly set my historical gown shoulder straps very narrow, but I always struggled to fit the sleeves on my form without creating an annoying puff bit at the shoulder cap.</p><p>So yes, it's taken me years to do this, but I finally hacked the shoulders of Old Reliable.</p><p>I removed the metal plates, peeled back the jersey cover, and marked the surgery line. Then I went at it with a serrated steak knife.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLaFEmzK3lqfqFhu6UsEfXkt47j8YHvcx83leQJdIx4EqMz_ADmU-fNEqKZ_kXf0ASiS5JqNQ06X3ZQuP95vl_4mxWsmbTuMioSOzqu75Nn38F4pE1DwOScha6U2kP4o5w5A9u2KHscJN3/s1200/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLaFEmzK3lqfqFhu6UsEfXkt47j8YHvcx83leQJdIx4EqMz_ADmU-fNEqKZ_kXf0ASiS5JqNQ06X3ZQuP95vl_4mxWsmbTuMioSOzqu75Nn38F4pE1DwOScha6U2kP4o5w5A9u2KHscJN3/w480-h640/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w-2.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>It wasn't pretty, but it worked.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I didn't realize it at first, but the armholes, where the metal plates for inserting the arms were, had plywood reinforcement. Good thing those steak knives were cheap! I sawed through one of them, but the second I accidentally pulled out. It only needed gluing back in, but because we somehow don't have any wood glue I used several sticks of hot glue (the glue of the gods) and rammed that sucker in there.</p><p>Jersey cover sutured up, metal plates back on, and voila - shoulder width fixed!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFO5V5Zi_ChyphenhyphengNGK4DE3d53rBQw8X5B_xqdhU7Mt_0kVcMwz_dLd-k1174hjZ0PbUpIcT3wNhuFKa-6dBIJtSGlipP2Zq2khQaFKTXjj6bjFMlkT1t_aSlgNaUaSjJH068TLf66RTT9lt/s1200/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFO5V5Zi_ChyphenhyphengNGK4DE3d53rBQw8X5B_xqdhU7Mt_0kVcMwz_dLd-k1174hjZ0PbUpIcT3wNhuFKa-6dBIJtSGlipP2Zq2khQaFKTXjj6bjFMlkT1t_aSlgNaUaSjJH068TLf66RTT9lt/w480-h640/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w-4.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sewing up the jersey cover, then screwing the metal plate back on</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhd_5zQi_DWmzqdfyr4VvhyiOc6WzAxIR2BoTKlPhc7U9aTbVLhYvzXWttylD6tbgcjp9IGpMFglTDrqQZJNpVbolQvS_hFYaEhK4pKVNiygnmISx30KI_I-JgxO907vfizZVs9h5u_srV/s1200/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhd_5zQi_DWmzqdfyr4VvhyiOc6WzAxIR2BoTKlPhc7U9aTbVLhYvzXWttylD6tbgcjp9IGpMFglTDrqQZJNpVbolQvS_hFYaEhK4pKVNiygnmISx30KI_I-JgxO907vfizZVs9h5u_srV/w480-h640/dress+form+shoulder+adjustment+w-3.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Shoulder fixed! And it works!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I tested the fix by setting the sleeves on my <a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/11/gown-in-weekend-1790s-vigee-lebrun.html">1790s Vigee Lebrun round gown</a> and they came out perfectly. Finally! Now I can fit sleeves without a buddy (or my poor husband).</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsKRDyhIrUoF9JnscsK7Sf1WwZVpKOk-QZ8umkguwnnlNX2pdaz1QMroTtx-Qo1WnIn__PSiaYMTvbV16XeLrN9V2r0Y2ZwJO3na8dQamkS-ml6tWWkkF4YQYLY87sEjeTRcCjqYDvVBWG/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="797" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsKRDyhIrUoF9JnscsK7Sf1WwZVpKOk-QZ8umkguwnnlNX2pdaz1QMroTtx-Qo1WnIn__PSiaYMTvbV16XeLrN9V2r0Y2ZwJO3na8dQamkS-ml6tWWkkF4YQYLY87sEjeTRcCjqYDvVBWG/w426-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-6.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nothing is as intolerable as poorly-fitting, constricting shoulders. I'm so glad I made this dress form fix and re-set the shoulders on this gown.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I do realize that dress forms have moved on in technology, and companies like <a href="https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/">Bootstrap Fashion</a> are making body-double patterns so you can sewn your own. I think these are *amazing* and I intend on getting one (I already have the soft arms pattern, waiting to be made). There is also a company called <a href="https://beatriceforms.com/">Beatrice Forms</a> doing body scan dress forms, and you can get your scan done in stays or a corset. I learned about both of these from <a href="https://sewstine.com/">Sewstine</a>, and the resulting gowns she's made on both forms have been amazing.</p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-36382184964706283052020-11-16T09:00:00.004-08:002020-11-16T09:00:05.320-08:00Gown-in-a-Weekend: 1790s Vigee-Lebrun Round Gown from Simplicity S8941<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxi5rpasa_vgAd5dgs_GDTrE8-UOj0oDa2iuv6rM2D7R7zdAXkhBrLyqmTyg0p81nDkdwklAcFzqOMlisZ1mMPz_7mu_2FAAhA7JQDXAZrn30N6K7R-WsGLmWs98EJJO03wv_jQ3ODIQf-/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="797" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxi5rpasa_vgAd5dgs_GDTrE8-UOj0oDa2iuv6rM2D7R7zdAXkhBrLyqmTyg0p81nDkdwklAcFzqOMlisZ1mMPz_7mu_2FAAhA7JQDXAZrn30N6K7R-WsGLmWs98EJJO03wv_jQ3ODIQf-/s16000/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-41.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">For some reason I got a wild hair to do a "gown in a weekend" project. Dr. Carolyn Dowdell and I made a pact to fill the void of black gowns in our wardrobes and I just happened to have a ridiculous amount of black/brown shot taffeta hanging about. I'd also been wanting to do my version of the </span><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-s8941-regency-round-gown-dress-robe?variant=35802387153046" style="text-align: left;">Simplicity S8941</a><span style="text-align: left;"> gown for some time, to report on pattern notes and adjustments.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJYZhSeeYuM_o-dhq0TuvAUimi13tytl60pYXOq535KuwiTVk_Hp6NGLohWysRmgieWzpY33Stjm9_eaicAhRBogEJ0b7XOJcRdbjYDCo3qVaGcPThhPa-T6BKLSJq_OlMzQVIoBiH4jt/s700/ab3925ef050d1d8e6e71cf5385a9c8da.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="543" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJYZhSeeYuM_o-dhq0TuvAUimi13tytl60pYXOq535KuwiTVk_Hp6NGLohWysRmgieWzpY33Stjm9_eaicAhRBogEJ0b7XOJcRdbjYDCo3qVaGcPThhPa-T6BKLSJq_OlMzQVIoBiH4jt/s16000/ab3925ef050d1d8e6e71cf5385a9c8da.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/656845" target="_blank">Self-Portrait, 1790, Elisabeth Louise Vigee Le Brun. The Met<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table></div><p>For the record, "gown in a weekend" is a bad idea (lol). Even a really simple dress like this one is just a bit much to put together by hand in two /partial/ days (because I like to sleep in, and I also needed to eat and walk doggos). It stops being fun towards the end. For the sake of the next couple posts, the "...in a weekend" part is kindof irrelevant. My intention with these posts is instead to go over the adjustments I made to the pattern and give tips and tricks.</p><p>I'm going to break the posts up because otherwise this'll get loooooong. I'll start with the end first - here it is! The finished gown!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNT2Pkr7qtciFKZQecQdoEoZyDGwKrnf3V6EEcwqHj0UE2O6j1gC-gK-v5hvc49H1TNv3KzjJOp0aSACofd4uk_rjWgX5Jp6u8a8YdM6_CLW25-TNiUwAKg3J9ouZaMqYOhIonO-6j53-m/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNT2Pkr7qtciFKZQecQdoEoZyDGwKrnf3V6EEcwqHj0UE2O6j1gC-gK-v5hvc49H1TNv3KzjJOp0aSACofd4uk_rjWgX5Jp6u8a8YdM6_CLW25-TNiUwAKg3J9ouZaMqYOhIonO-6j53-m/s16000/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-18.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">I have finally achieved epic train status. For whatever reason, I never make my trains long enough and they end up not really, well, training. So yes, I am overcompensating.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmPR0S4p7EoyFGm1bIxUqNzUyDwAOR0anG264PMeNhs08U6ol_rcmShYd0re3b3WaMs_Lp08npFxceAnNN-G0v3PiscgbgJYLJhh-14YIZ1VTz_YqeYnCDADegPcdnU3sBK9m4KDx8UAo/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="797" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmPR0S4p7EoyFGm1bIxUqNzUyDwAOR0anG264PMeNhs08U6ol_rcmShYd0re3b3WaMs_Lp08npFxceAnNN-G0v3PiscgbgJYLJhh-14YIZ1VTz_YqeYnCDADegPcdnU3sBK9m4KDx8UAo/s16000/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-49.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bLTPunk1FDJXxBRPNosCGG9rbquH1lfuLdhn9Jmzg5MPzwxq-tdzEXiPqirufvGTBqcXd6fubzZGbYNXnoNHS908O6Y8izpCUDTfBzVuRdpz1fmh_T6G7yIj3qP_BjOeyaM4ORk0zjHG/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="797" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bLTPunk1FDJXxBRPNosCGG9rbquH1lfuLdhn9Jmzg5MPzwxq-tdzEXiPqirufvGTBqcXd6fubzZGbYNXnoNHS908O6Y8izpCUDTfBzVuRdpz1fmh_T6G7yIj3qP_BjOeyaM4ORk0zjHG/s16000/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-25.jpg" /></a></div><p>Now for a quick rundown of the making.</p><p>I started by taking a few vital measures, then making my adjustments to the pattern. There are a few things I already know about my body vs. Simplicity patterns - height, waist length, and shoulder width primarily. I also measured upper and lower arm length and bust depth for the empire waist and neckline. I will go over all of these adjustments in detail in the next post.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sgyV-YLqaWCzLbx9sGlhVBpee3ybpxP0wrL_pVoe3GTWMvBLEzFhuRi0RgmKFmYLv3vw7GWd72cXoZ5TimNA-Wb3XcCDtunXvkek7bairci7bqiBDjf-iFGfEYJFf9QIC7vpcCGcfB4v/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sgyV-YLqaWCzLbx9sGlhVBpee3ybpxP0wrL_pVoe3GTWMvBLEzFhuRi0RgmKFmYLv3vw7GWd72cXoZ5TimNA-Wb3XcCDtunXvkek7bairci7bqiBDjf-iFGfEYJFf9QIC7vpcCGcfB4v/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0x0j4_8Mm4ncu2kYx-16W1fXmwxeuoakL4IfnuxH5eG7TtpnM8Ico9iI1DHKcNY-pgRk4nmwOJaoPceuHrXfFrwrUlF6Wl_3HmdHs7fcqhxtHRr_K0KemG3T3030cEocYQEP3CuGh8Aby/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0x0j4_8Mm4ncu2kYx-16W1fXmwxeuoakL4IfnuxH5eG7TtpnM8Ico9iI1DHKcNY-pgRk4nmwOJaoPceuHrXfFrwrUlF6Wl_3HmdHs7fcqhxtHRr_K0KemG3T3030cEocYQEP3CuGh8Aby/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-4.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>After I made my adjustments to the pattern, I rolled out and furiously brushed the salt spots off my taffeta. I got this humongous bolt of glorious black/brown silk taffeta at our local Mill End for an killer deal because it was *covered* in salt spots. I can get them mostly off with a horsehair shoe brush, but it takes elbow grease and time, which in a gown-in-a-weekend project is annoying but heck, $2/yard silk taffeta...I'm willing. I cut all my pieces. I later returned and cut the bodice front piece again after realizing I'd cut it on the wrong orientation.</p><p><b>Tip: With shot fabrics, even when the warp and weft are very similar in color, it's important to cut all pieces going the same direction (uppy-downy), otherwise the light will play on the parts of the gown differently and it'll look wonky.</b></p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2DlYZnl5D8i4Ia9vYQ40_lVDsK4aQJwp_fJs0H6-OaiXWh23gWc1jliUBJLkLINh9_Iaj54zGNxrHvBWHNP2F6hOfcptwzXwmgv-kKpfIfqS1qx6iKT_rmtHouBF4aXJyiy881D3CT0ig/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2DlYZnl5D8i4Ia9vYQ40_lVDsK4aQJwp_fJs0H6-OaiXWh23gWc1jliUBJLkLINh9_Iaj54zGNxrHvBWHNP2F6hOfcptwzXwmgv-kKpfIfqS1qx6iKT_rmtHouBF4aXJyiy881D3CT0ig/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-12.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The bodice front piece is on the wrong grain here - I had to recut that piece later on.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table></p><p>Next, straight into making the bodice. I used a medium weight linen for the underbodice and back lining, hemming the front edges where they are separate from the black taffeta, and using English stitch to join the back and side back pieces (AD Guide <span style="background-color: white;">pages 13, 181</span>). (Yes, I reference <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide" target="_blank">The American Duchess Guide</a> *every* time I sew anything 18th century).</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4McfnMrfisYEeBHSsJZn-4c4_WaiQ3k5Qk8ek9rR0nK_VuWr5Y7_Hy9gWMg7q6raqTl1tXVY8o-dshogp7DPoYd77WfC6g4DcOml2E717OA0YBDkvavlU2cHoNmbXCMyLtq4-Ic4lcUbm/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4McfnMrfisYEeBHSsJZn-4c4_WaiQ3k5Qk8ek9rR0nK_VuWr5Y7_Hy9gWMg7q6raqTl1tXVY8o-dshogp7DPoYd77WfC6g4DcOml2E717OA0YBDkvavlU2cHoNmbXCMyLtq4-Ic4lcUbm/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-15.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Here is the back with finished neck and waistline edges, and the side back seams English stitched together.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSktKYenlzPC124nUwQI2aymkzEpbUnednwQXz8xkRyDmrwX_FnZbAGaDb6y70xROhwcyq69v-N1xMPFR2nPhuVlc2f-yLSdBr9-7NYkPJrlLBEGi_qYxyOiPN0Avuo8OlYmhW4AVFKNMM/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSktKYenlzPC124nUwQI2aymkzEpbUnednwQXz8xkRyDmrwX_FnZbAGaDb6y70xROhwcyq69v-N1xMPFR2nPhuVlc2f-yLSdBr9-7NYkPJrlLBEGi_qYxyOiPN0Avuo8OlYmhW4AVFKNMM/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-18.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">A quick fitting on the bodice, to pinch up the bust darts. My front waistline *should* be under the bust, but a few things inhibited that - 1) I set my shoulder seams waaaaay back and therefore lifted the front; 2) my bust darts aren't as full as recommended on the pattern; 3) I'm wearing 1790s stays that have a low and somewhat ambiguous bust point. This pattern was designed to go over either Regency high-busted stays *or* a modern bra. The good news is that this affects the finish gown very little, because these underbodice straps are there merely to hold the back of the gown taught.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Next, the skirt back and side back pieces were joined with mantua-maker's seams (AD Guide <span style="background-color: white;"><span>page 13, 184</span>).</span> I decided to add a hem guard to the quite-long train at this point for a couple reasons. First is to weight the hem so the back trains nicely. The second reason is to protect the fabric where it drags on the ground. I used 6 inch wide lengths of acid green silk taffeta, turned on each long edge and running-stitched (AD Guide <span style="background-color: white;"><span>page 107</span>).</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0bIyI1nJLHSrda3muvcFsBmbIqTWC4-NHcrI0_sqoJO-iorQV4P-CJPLGeHi5H773KUq6L308JuqrYkxCzzn3AeJnmydvDgF_QUSEWMc7C2m5-Au9Ps7-B5Mgpdap42XAwOg7ltR3vImL/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0bIyI1nJLHSrda3muvcFsBmbIqTWC4-NHcrI0_sqoJO-iorQV4P-CJPLGeHi5H773KUq6L308JuqrYkxCzzn3AeJnmydvDgF_QUSEWMc7C2m5-Au9Ps7-B5Mgpdap42XAwOg7ltR3vImL/w640-h480/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-25.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">A riveting photo of a mantua-maker's seam joining two skirt panels. For those who have puzzled over how to finish skirt seams with no visible stitches on the outside, this is how.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHKRAaCxEHR8uUYxYZ9OlySHVeZ8JOcTQC6Y03XWtJUheTC4dB6MAwHrV-QdjF7Vb0VwHW4i9dFuHKWeh9JXB7pSLDjY41AZp_UNRI_36ZF9W5C0khHwD_1n8I0WhXtCzGmDiHbpD88KaR/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHKRAaCxEHR8uUYxYZ9OlySHVeZ8JOcTQC6Y03XWtJUheTC4dB6MAwHrV-QdjF7Vb0VwHW4i9dFuHKWeh9JXB7pSLDjY41AZp_UNRI_36ZF9W5C0khHwD_1n8I0WhXtCzGmDiHbpD88KaR/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-24.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Who can resist roughly pinning the skirt up to see how it will look?<br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNKzx-47Lcf75CD0558wzT61h-Ajr3-C-1tLB23JkXLVvnJOlbnRhFRQfTVBYkhkM9os5W-0D_jIKHLMsY9XYDSqs4npkaI7Ln7zuQImp053KLd4Eq52cY3wMuQqFLpyLImn7ZNFvoa3T/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNKzx-47Lcf75CD0558wzT61h-Ajr3-C-1tLB23JkXLVvnJOlbnRhFRQfTVBYkhkM9os5W-0D_jIKHLMsY9XYDSqs4npkaI7Ln7zuQImp053KLd4Eq52cY3wMuQqFLpyLImn7ZNFvoa3T/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-32.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The hem guard in progress - you can see the "nun tucks" to get around the curved hem.<br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Tip: Hem guards on 18th century gowns are usually strips of silk taffeta cut on the straight and "nun tucked" to shape. It's important that the material be very lightweight and tightly-woven so that it is not too heavy and pulls the skirt funny, and also so it does not catch on the ground. Cheap, tightly-woven silk taffeta is the most common, and what I recommend.</b></p><p>Not all 1790s gowns have hem guards, and to be honest it was probably unnecessary in this one, and took a LOT of time. It probably also wasn't wide enough, but lesson learned. Consolation prize: bright-ass green occasionally peeks out, and that brings me joy.</p><p>With the back skirts prepared, I pleated the top breadth to fit the bodice back. I chose to pleat instead of gather because I don't love the bulk of gathers and pleating is faster. I pleated, turned down the top, pleats and all, leaving the edges raw inside, and whip-stitched the skirt to the bodice, right sides together, with heavy thread (AD Guide <span style="background-color: white;">p<span>age 12, 186</span>).</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglWC90g8QO7ARIsgm66Cot7fx8XBnez97I5PoV6adiFZdpcDkIjPTZUodiKKxQz-zwjKsOi-AetQ92q4AclZJZZDNB6rd3-a1UF6CaRsewL33kjGT4g9k8aMaUOU-7vIy7xtdmd-RCdBry/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglWC90g8QO7ARIsgm66Cot7fx8XBnez97I5PoV6adiFZdpcDkIjPTZUodiKKxQz-zwjKsOi-AetQ92q4AclZJZZDNB6rd3-a1UF6CaRsewL33kjGT4g9k8aMaUOU-7vIy7xtdmd-RCdBry/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-26.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pleating the skirt waist. I never measure pleats - I just get that center box pleat right and then make it fit with roughly the same visible width per pleat.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55BiFA8MIKw2piLPP7j0NHrFSBF29YGpLyCizmRwvTaFGWtISJeoSCN-u3agHDhC2u4cQ3yMoDXuDg7RUYWaQafC68YscBq8h_z5OZxkxEqk2x0saCGiS2G9zDoPbRHDuzixoa_GmRdRq/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55BiFA8MIKw2piLPP7j0NHrFSBF29YGpLyCizmRwvTaFGWtISJeoSCN-u3agHDhC2u4cQ3yMoDXuDg7RUYWaQafC68YscBq8h_z5OZxkxEqk2x0saCGiS2G9zDoPbRHDuzixoa_GmRdRq/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-27.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The bodice matched right-sides-together to the skirt back waist.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhpHWoWr-uBI3Szign_v7HcfePnhR_WQQWhic10h8S0JFDtiI9N7kGbuQPnAgWPhI4gND46LblBYzDKny5xt48ZPwl4oKWM3xKUvmzfCoItORQvx2oo_eJOdAjiz14EP11JaiYy9Ha4wi/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhpHWoWr-uBI3Szign_v7HcfePnhR_WQQWhic10h8S0JFDtiI9N7kGbuQPnAgWPhI4gND46LblBYzDKny5xt48ZPwl4oKWM3xKUvmzfCoItORQvx2oo_eJOdAjiz14EP11JaiYy9Ha4wi/w640-h480/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-28.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The waist edges of bodice and skirt are whip stitched together with heavy thread</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6RWNVGqWrEq2j-nX3CwESVWUxEiqvSLLoiJwv-gLj9D_qcQizypzyfJwTgonb9kXqrqV1kyV5GE64DIG9Qj7htYw9PQc1kMLtKtgRYedudQBvMKFEGYmOZcQDI7KdSEiKTjy5j2p7HBVl/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6RWNVGqWrEq2j-nX3CwESVWUxEiqvSLLoiJwv-gLj9D_qcQizypzyfJwTgonb9kXqrqV1kyV5GE64DIG9Qj7htYw9PQc1kMLtKtgRYedudQBvMKFEGYmOZcQDI7KdSEiKTjy5j2p7HBVl/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-30.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Nicely finished waist edge with very little bulk.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Back done. Huzzah.<p>The front of the gown is done in two pieces - bodice and skirt, joined at the empire waist with a combo seam + drawstring channel. I had a little issue with my side seams not matching up after I adjusted my bodice piece, but I futzed it to make it work. The drawstring channel went in the neckline edge (tricky), and then it was time to apply the whole front piece to the gown.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitCmWaf2QgLJrccLXO2w6-pwc6jtKnzkPLQxZs3T5Yn6uW9xXs_ZeHHXc12Laib6jm9kcZcGY1kbmGFgYGTMOsA-HXLT0jeEHO0Fe1ko6uDUs_5A1zy8P4u-4N7Y5RSH5g74i8hfuIJuRJ/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitCmWaf2QgLJrccLXO2w6-pwc6jtKnzkPLQxZs3T5Yn6uW9xXs_ZeHHXc12Laib6jm9kcZcGY1kbmGFgYGTMOsA-HXLT0jeEHO0Fe1ko6uDUs_5A1zy8P4u-4N7Y5RSH5g74i8hfuIJuRJ/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-34.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>I had a little trouble getting the front bodice all matched up nicely around the shoulder straps. This is because I sent my shoulder straps very far back for my narrow shoulders, and it affected the armscye and shoulder seams. This is where things went a little haywire.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrUhpteTjI463b6bq7ByQtAfz1NZ7tv8A1VK5jRf1NKadtbj-SEcSAabiEYJs1z2UxWrZUDRdF4xhzs9hQQYMMbC19I2t1CRljYo0-dOSRjhIp6JvTNiR9gK5zOXC5alSoS9yQaXNPVSO/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrUhpteTjI463b6bq7ByQtAfz1NZ7tv8A1VK5jRf1NKadtbj-SEcSAabiEYJs1z2UxWrZUDRdF4xhzs9hQQYMMbC19I2t1CRljYo0-dOSRjhIp6JvTNiR9gK5zOXC5alSoS9yQaXNPVSO/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-35.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Narrow back problems - I set my shoulder straps very narrow and this causes issues with the bodice front. The fix for this is to add extra seam allowance to the end of the shoulder strap.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNDQtRyFV8EuEXEfUtlrF3ouCOdyg8eqgvQm79jgSoz-wdg410XlmiB0UkOnIozhM4fOowHMteD83lUYBzM8YJLCRdeeDaK7jwybvP43Y3CRJkxew3UfHaDZMAbROvboWbXJanDpbGSeuA/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNDQtRyFV8EuEXEfUtlrF3ouCOdyg8eqgvQm79jgSoz-wdg410XlmiB0UkOnIozhM4fOowHMteD83lUYBzM8YJLCRdeeDaK7jwybvP43Y3CRJkxew3UfHaDZMAbROvboWbXJanDpbGSeuA/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-37.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">...and also add extra seam allowance to the fashion fabric, in case it gets a little tight on turning under the edges.<br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>(In between, I constructed my sleeves, using a lightweight striped cotton for the lining, and joining both the front seam and the long dart with the tailor's method (AD Guide <span style="background-color: white;">page 186</span>))</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27cT53nkaIqZonmmzmGXXrFVeMS3S-7lMEfVh_IbDb0UlZYLfaaFjO6nxMeOAO6PWm0G7AVTtjKZ3lx2G3xAhyphenhyphenraCHhyyNRL-A1o7g9l7-x0Q3L5bCnJh25d1SHlgu4i6Ueb24L4uO79N/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27cT53nkaIqZonmmzmGXXrFVeMS3S-7lMEfVh_IbDb0UlZYLfaaFjO6nxMeOAO6PWm0G7AVTtjKZ3lx2G3xAhyphenhyphenraCHhyyNRL-A1o7g9l7-x0Q3L5bCnJh25d1SHlgu4i6Ueb24L4uO79N/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-20.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sleeve construction and quick fit test...ah, but I didn't have enough shoulder cap seam allowance for my narrow-set straps. Tough lessons for me in the domino effect of alterations required on paper patterns!</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8yUUDRTm-0-QIZmb9BxN-kRd7CZ9jSigqK5b_vpGwi8p7zajYgLS9AsYuUeEhbsKlaSRpcaulpL0MtygJIvdHU7VGmJgd4dcJKPLKPRJJvnTsWesobdhbD-fP4RN41LYGf0X37Vq5YHn4/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8yUUDRTm-0-QIZmb9BxN-kRd7CZ9jSigqK5b_vpGwi8p7zajYgLS9AsYuUeEhbsKlaSRpcaulpL0MtygJIvdHU7VGmJgd4dcJKPLKPRJJvnTsWesobdhbD-fP4RN41LYGf0X37Vq5YHn4/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-39.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lightweight stripey cotton lining on the sleeves. I don't like to line my sleeves with linen because it's usually too heavy, so I go for lightweight cotton.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table></div><p>I forged ahead and set the sleeves right-sides together, thinking they'd be fine. It was almost 11 pm on Sunday night and I was feeling rushed to get the gown done, but truth be told, I've since re-set the sleeves the correct way and they actually fit now. I'll cover this more in the alterations post, but...</p><p><b>Tip: If you have narrow shoulders or set your straps further into the back than the pattern intends, it is necessary to add extra allowance to the sleeve cap, to make up that space.</b></p><p><b>Another Tip: Get yourself a nice arm for your dressform. <a href="https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern/dress-form-add-on-arm.html#.X5XDOojYqbg">Boostrap Fashion has ePatterns to download for your specific arm measurements</a>, in addition to their custom-fit dress form patterns (highly recommend!).</b></p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe6pm32leLItvAKZ9BpQcNljSDgd6jr7J0B7LcyBKqKHTVSQyGOGMew0IWdFl5RHTKlQsDSpQakFZtblUtmjm-uE8jiADH73AfEnj9e0S0CRjVu5_MG_Eup1MciUgKwLpC1CcVy4b0tIGy/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe6pm32leLItvAKZ9BpQcNljSDgd6jr7J0B7LcyBKqKHTVSQyGOGMew0IWdFl5RHTKlQsDSpQakFZtblUtmjm-uE8jiADH73AfEnj9e0S0CRjVu5_MG_Eup1MciUgKwLpC1CcVy4b0tIGy/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-41.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">11 pm on Sunday night and the gown was done! (technically)</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEiwbUq6YQ5Wn72zshROB6TPsVLULERN3_k91VZ8zEMtj7nEz2eSt00mDQg1biHCSYLafiUOQm5qRRN4dScLf6ICih554ndqxdN9WtOGQueXf7lIdHchwRwsNyJmhZw7WSC1xn7g2aPvZS/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEiwbUq6YQ5Wn72zshROB6TPsVLULERN3_k91VZ8zEMtj7nEz2eSt00mDQg1biHCSYLafiUOQm5qRRN4dScLf6ICih554ndqxdN9WtOGQueXf7lIdHchwRwsNyJmhZw7WSC1xn7g2aPvZS/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-48.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Finished gown, but not perfect - see that funk on the sleeve head and also how short the cuffs are?<br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>With that, the gown itself was DONE! But, of course, a gown is just a gown...an ensemble is made up of many different parts, so I made a red sash, trimmed my sleeve cuffs in lace, and tore my sewing room apart to find my lace-ruffled chemisette and turban cap (AD Guide <span style="background-color: white;"><span>page 202</span>).</span> I'm quite happy with the final gown, and now finally have an elegant black costume with an epic train to drag around in which to feel huge and elegant. ;-)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89shvbp7JyXGYqND-DJNv-OFMctNDPxXNdCQskU1gHNkjEJnczfbhA2mzKh3VK_XhkHBtVgB85XRsypc3RIytTP3mifl6FGxsV3ImF3hhn4s5lUX2BrYWHrbJttTS0Aef8H2-Kh9RgR-W/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89shvbp7JyXGYqND-DJNv-OFMctNDPxXNdCQskU1gHNkjEJnczfbhA2mzKh3VK_XhkHBtVgB85XRsypc3RIytTP3mifl6FGxsV3ImF3hhn4s5lUX2BrYWHrbJttTS0Aef8H2-Kh9RgR-W/w480-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+in+progress-49.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Millinery (accessories) make all the difference - Here is the gown with a chemisette and cuff ruffles and the red sash a la Vigee-Lebrun. You can also see the re-set sleeves here.<br /><br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVuT0lSyzp7brf5BuEDWlZvh5Sk6d9mEYAtLQ_j5vRcuBKaxN55Q2OEBSIxE7-vnEG-Xm_OavxmvLwF9N9dwSntRD9MpnyyPEvIoSXhvQyvDuYSXnG9AvYAc8EdryWyyMI-EZH_5jYuf8s/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="797" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVuT0lSyzp7brf5BuEDWlZvh5Sk6d9mEYAtLQ_j5vRcuBKaxN55Q2OEBSIxE7-vnEG-Xm_OavxmvLwF9N9dwSntRD9MpnyyPEvIoSXhvQyvDuYSXnG9AvYAc8EdryWyyMI-EZH_5jYuf8s/w426-h640/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="426" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">All put together, and with the sleeves re-set. I didn't even have to piece the sleeve heads.</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUqKWUzcHny0DkqPHY1RlLiVMXNS3JMROy3Mt791JrDHd4aMGjArDh-NpoWRdkgjj-V1WW-g0ywOrk1tL00S5iM62iZp-sTHImzc1fVh1RMwzqOTDlDxWZidYw338vzKQTCRVXj7_LvB4K/s1200/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1200" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUqKWUzcHny0DkqPHY1RlLiVMXNS3JMROy3Mt791JrDHd4aMGjArDh-NpoWRdkgjj-V1WW-g0ywOrk1tL00S5iM62iZp-sTHImzc1fVh1RMwzqOTDlDxWZidYw338vzKQTCRVXj7_LvB4K/w640-h426/1790s+vigee+lebrun+fin+w-38.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The test of a good armscye and sleeve ;-)</span></i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Photos by Chris Stowell</p></div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-39625893093632379352020-10-30T09:00:00.001-07:002020-10-30T09:00:01.469-07:00Marilyn 1940s Pumps - Pre-Order OPEN!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="940" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJA0puYCQ4GxfLD-RiV6HnQX7uGpkXsJvZRn3ERyM7nl6L-iss0u1rToGkzDFgSu2J9xIJV4fNdAGymMQQoCTEnpGyTCUe8hZMhJw9ITGmkfCwQgosYqZ3mjhx_CrQj_mHQ9SwEyhJwTel/w640-h340/fw20-marilyn-pre-order-banner-web-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>We're not quite done with the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Fall/Winter 2020</a> shoe releases yet! As much as we'd liked to have introduced everything at once, this year has scuppered those plans. We're still makin' it through though!</p><p>Marilyn 1940s Pinup Pumps have proven to be the most popular vintage shoes we've made. Originally we offered them in <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-royal-vintage-black">black</a> and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-oxblood-red">oxblood red</a> in 2016, and since then we've offered <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-royal-vintage-black">black</a> and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/1940s-shoes-and-boots/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-royal-vintage-green?variant=35772392308886">pine green</a>. Finally, after all this time, we're able to expand the color and size options!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oWWVPq-ZNR8ZMkssohaqo-VN3_z9BkLTmRcQs7E48BF4Dh02wek3cSNqnyhunPfR_SIAvXC5YeGYjcsHb9sqOgKyKbyceT3mMwJa9OLPEkHTIELjSAETf5LB3dMLFBcpurSUT67DSulk/w640-h640/marilyn-pre-order-sq.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Marilyns are being offered again in <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-royal-vintage-black">black</a> and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-oxblood-red">oxblood red</a>, and now with two new colors of <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-brown">chocolate brown</a> and <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/marilyn-1940s-pumps-navy-blue">navy blue</a>. We're doing unlimited quantities in our new extended size range, women's US 5 - 12, too, so if you've never been able to get these before, here's your chance!</p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Pre-Order is open</span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b>October 30 - November 13, 2020</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>at <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">AmericanDuchess.com</a></b></div></span></b><p></p><p>We're offering a <b>$20/pair discount</b> as usual. We have <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/pages/layaway">Sezzle Layaway</a> up and running for US and Canadian orders, and we have <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/pages/returns-and-exchanges">free exchanges for US orders</a> too, in case you need a different size.</p><p>Delivery is scheduled for February 2021.</p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-22074906855634898982020-10-20T09:00:00.016-07:002020-10-20T12:19:19.594-07:00Why Sew with Nowhere to Go?<p style="text-align: left;"> -or-</p><p style="text-align: left;">Why Sew When the World is Ending?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1aZPhV1I_Wd7zU_KmLy9yYf7Ae1FjwNQg15Psy1h3CHc6ybWax7_VidzHJJ6sdFhm8kPAcUtKU2PVUvUdh8Ay7EvcMGsDuy3Ri3uXqTBCKrL8JX4TvPmiGWv7o0FLwL4lk8DkXL9531qs/s1200/book2+bts-8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1aZPhV1I_Wd7zU_KmLy9yYf7Ae1FjwNQg15Psy1h3CHc6ybWax7_VidzHJJ6sdFhm8kPAcUtKU2PVUvUdh8Ay7EvcMGsDuy3Ri3uXqTBCKrL8JX4TvPmiGWv7o0FLwL4lk8DkXL9531qs/w640-h426/book2+bts-8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>For so many of us, sewing is about so much more than producing clothing to be worn. Everyone has a different reason for pursuing this hobby, what outsiders might say is frivolous or superfluous. Some enjoy the historical research, learning about the textiles used or the people who wore such attire, and why they did. Some enjoy the craft of it, while others enjoy the design or problem-solving. The wearing of is just the final icing on this layer cake of creativity.<br /><br />But why sew when all events are cancelled? It is a massive bummer, indeed, to not be able to attend fairs, picnics, historic sites, battles, balls, and parties - but we are quite lucky, in our modern online world, to be able to show our creations on social media. We've adapted as best we could - silhouette parties and costume gatherings on Zoom keep some of the magic alive, however small that sparkle may be right now.<br /><br />Perhaps most importantly, historical costuming engages our brains. Curiosity and creation are vital to survival; that seems more apparent than ever. It's also harder than ever, with so much anxiety about the state of the world, followed by depression and malaise.<br /><br />In our sewing, though, is there not resistance and rebellion? Continuing to create and do so looking towards a brighter future seems revolutionary right now, but we are holding out. The world may not "go back" to the way it was in the BeforeTimes, but when this storm is over and we can meet again, my what a fabulous choice of dress we shall each have.Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-32166951245865198312020-10-16T09:00:00.001-07:002020-10-16T09:00:00.518-07:00Meet the New Pompadour 18th Century Shoes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="1200" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWIM4fPoJB6cX1k2MLdjrCUW-d186bG9Fuk4pFFFytFfgBnkF5hHCMGXSjSVRuwS7klOUYvs2E4zMn0d5JjXx-wt5aPBnhGO74pDC_bbpsDqJ5VH5cZ6jQxecSfQL199KlIlKdo7ZCQrW/w640-h342/pomp-comp-fw20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>This season, we're proud to finally introduce the new and improved <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots">Pompadour 18th Century Court Shoes</a>! We've made a few changes to this classic, curvaceous style.</div><div>The Pompadours have been one of our most popular designs since 2012, particularly with theaters. The pointed toes and curvy heels are just so iconic for the first half of the 18th century. Over the years we've received feedback on what we could do to improve them, particularly for dancers, so this year, with all of the re-tooling and redeveloping we've been doing with changing factories, we had the opportunity to implement these changes.</div><div><br /></div><div>The major one is the new heel shape. Nicole carved the new heels by hand, referencing original heels, which have the most amazing curves on all sides, including the breast of the heel. We've never been able to achieve that inward curve on the inside of the heel before, but we made it happen this time, and the shoes are just *chef's kiss* with that little detail.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots/products/pompadour-french-court-shoe-black?variant=35772117123222" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKO4R9iwAS4bFshdz5QB8YiRaPk0qVotnRkwXwVrO8QEy0tUasd10Ul4WjUmFVlgSzIQYIjK0C2x19OC9XMeIEzLKngRraHrMJF6hPO0Cv8gg-mE8PQURcUOz2BAOhDvSXz8ORBTtJ5n6B/w640-h640/pompadour-18th-century-shoes-black-20-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>We've also greatly improved the last, which now has a better instep curve (the top of the foot), creating an elegant shape on the foot. The shoes are altogether more comfortable with this improved fit.</div><div><br /></div><div>The last change is that we are finally offering <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots/products/pompadour-french-court-shoe-black?variant=35772117123222">Pompadours in leather</a>! Now Pomps can and should be worn for all occasions indoors and out, and will withstand plenty of weather and terrain. The <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots/products/pompadour-18th-century-shoe-ivory-leather?variant=35772476489878">white leather Pompadours are dyeable and paintable as well</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots/products/pompadour-18th-century-shoe-ivory-leather?variant=35772476489878" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBR7VwUHTl1y8PI_agAHuV_KOGhwrhR1tURmibMECsw_Baz16CP9Rvm3dTJYP0NRKyk_B5P50LEI41y6Npp-koaRUlPePBG8481KnLkQlZUVx9VrKW4dLhYqM8-haUrq47Ro4hBYnDOU8/w640-h640/pompadour-18th-century-shoes-ivory-20-of-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I am personally very proud of the changes and updates we've made to these beautiful shoes. I hope you enjoy them too! Pompadours are currently in production and will be landing in our warehouse in late November. <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots">You can reserve your pair here</a>. </div>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-65632423707158462402020-10-13T14:44:00.002-07:002020-10-13T14:44:49.865-07:00Motivation to Sew in the Time of Coronavirus<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Jx3HAOI0SeAg7qxAx70OP6zJLMg9aZzcVo5Oo94CjlJQ1nZXCCdamrxVf3FsEKgt5CL_x6cMlYe2UNH6skqPgoHEBVaXjxspJC96u7FYEHwbAQk-QSwmu_ntDQKOB-s8gqLZmPCLawIW/s1200/1930s-ufos-april2020-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="829" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Jx3HAOI0SeAg7qxAx70OP6zJLMg9aZzcVo5Oo94CjlJQ1nZXCCdamrxVf3FsEKgt5CL_x6cMlYe2UNH6skqPgoHEBVaXjxspJC96u7FYEHwbAQk-QSwmu_ntDQKOB-s8gqLZmPCLawIW/w442-h640/1930s-ufos-april2020-8.jpg" width="442" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A 1930s UFO - it's not made well, but it's made!</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The year thus far has been a rollercoaster (understatement), and my sewing adventures have been rather manic-depressive - great big swings between "sew all the things" and "I haven't entered my sewing room in longer than I can remember."</p><p>A lot of us are feeling this way right now. I'm on a semi-upswing of sewing. I do about a good day's worth, then lose energy to continue, but even in that stripped-back way I'm getting things done, and drawing benefit from the creative time.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghNuw0tzFIKt14YVR1-v8bunVHaM2niJNHNpweXCOqHurV6x3DDy6eVMoQh7l2W-G9TXYEdCo0K5FOIbqlgC_snkyNyqH1VJ0dN3on1phKCAYpK49zofHUg_uMlKxu5y6EZX9zmYTudDt8/s1500/1760s+lauren+sacque+W-21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghNuw0tzFIKt14YVR1-v8bunVHaM2niJNHNpweXCOqHurV6x3DDy6eVMoQh7l2W-G9TXYEdCo0K5FOIbqlgC_snkyNyqH1VJ0dN3on1phKCAYpK49zofHUg_uMlKxu5y6EZX9zmYTudDt8/w640-h426/1760s+lauren+sacque+W-21.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">My "big" project of 2020 - pulling this 1760s sacque out of its plastic bag and pushing it through to completion.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I don't have tips for you on how to re-energize and get back to sewing. I'd just like to share the things I've made this year, and what I'm kindof working on right now...</p><p><u>Things I've Made/Finished...</u></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1630s">1630s Dutch Lobster-Bodice</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/history-is-cool-1890s-belle-epoque.html">1890s Linen Blouse</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/finished-vintage-dress-ufo-1-simplicity.html">1930s Dotty Old Lady Dress</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/2020/04/finished-vintage-dress-ufo-2-simplicity.html">Green Late 1930s Day Dress</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1760s%20Robe%20a%20la%20Bon%20Bon">1760s Robe a la Francaise</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1890s%20Linen%20Cycling%20Jacket">1890s Linen Cycling Jacket</a></li></ul><div><u>Things I'm Working On/Intend to Finish...</u></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1730s%20Robe%20Volante">1730s Robe Volante</a></li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1630s">1630s Dutch Vlieger (Surcoat)</a></li><li>1890s "Colette" Eton Jacket</li><li><a href="https://blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1780%20Robe%20a%20l%27Avi">1780s Embroidered Italian Gown</a></li></ul></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsxUcdBoYKncQKJ_oVmXYkqe1MX8gfqt6QQUSN-zR4-NVLbXqxImyDRElmfsPAeOPzQg5wGNh5Sh3M_gBd40VkwDcGNSoaqPqERGdLyllruczo47GhQxgG0K9cTFJApZ-B6Vx78iTAa-f1/s1500/volante+gown+6-10-20+w-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1064" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsxUcdBoYKncQKJ_oVmXYkqe1MX8gfqt6QQUSN-zR4-NVLbXqxImyDRElmfsPAeOPzQg5wGNh5Sh3M_gBd40VkwDcGNSoaqPqERGdLyllruczo47GhQxgG0K9cTFJApZ-B6Vx78iTAa-f1/w454-h640/volante+gown+6-10-20+w-5.jpg" width="454" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">1730s Robe Volante in progress - this is pretty much a hot mess at the moment.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>I guess that's not so bad for this year! Most of my projects are UFOs. I enjoy "fixing" things, though finding the motivation to pick up and seam-rip into a roadblocked old project is challenging. I greatly enjoy seeing something rise from the dead and come to fruition.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Opgzyt-sWcGwaXgqPQ62Ph7po56MkS3L4Uex60ihClpdMktu1815Q7Qkp30x8t6DQeroa8eFXOO8hQ98mvH_reKBIyKLzCNumYXBRJkQkoJgVRl8JTqLPbZNNWIEsgaezid-yHABSt7A/s1200/1890s-shirtwaist-photos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1108" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Opgzyt-sWcGwaXgqPQ62Ph7po56MkS3L4Uex60ihClpdMktu1815Q7Qkp30x8t6DQeroa8eFXOO8hQ98mvH_reKBIyKLzCNumYXBRJkQkoJgVRl8JTqLPbZNNWIEsgaezid-yHABSt7A/w590-h640/1890s-shirtwaist-photos.jpg" width="590" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">1890s Shirtwaist. I look hopeful for the future. LOL.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>If you too have lost your sewing mojo, I encourage you to make a list of everything and anything you've made this year. It doesn't even have to be sewing-related. I've cooked *a lot* this year, and I get the same creative buzz from cooking.</div><div><br /></div><div>Have you grown a garden?</div><div>Baked?</div><div>Made masks?</div><div>Gotten out of bed? (most mornings, some mornings?)</div><div>Put on makeup or done your hair?</div><div><br /></div><div>Just surviving this year is accomplishment enough. <3</div><div> </div><p></p>Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-68447717213517117342020-10-01T09:00:00.001-07:002020-10-01T09:00:02.993-07:00Pre-Order, Part Deux, Is Open!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="940" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1bSqfyitq5l-6wv5fr_k8CLodDuxDwgtRNYLW8fdsKQt_BJ5WA6VV0mCDOO4EzHmB2lvnpmr7B6abXBWodU39n7LRmkP4cNmAIBoEf8DnbaTe6idC2MbAlJ8lQATtj8FUVV04ogiAzfsG/w640-h340/fw2020-pre-order2-web-banner-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Well, this is certainly a first! Due to popular demand, we're popping open <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">another pre-order for the sold-out styles in the F/W2020 collection</a> - Londoner, Bernadette, Gibson, and Tango Boots.</div>
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The 2nd pre-order is open October 1 - 16, 2020.<br />
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The $20/pair discount applies through October 16th.<br />
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We're offering the full extended size range - US women's 5 - 12 - and ordering is fully and completely *unlimited* through October 16th.<br />
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ALL colors of Londoner, Bernadette, Gibson, and Tango are on offer again. This is the first time we've been able to offer such a selection, so we hope there's something to tickle your tootsies this season.<br />
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Estimated delivery is February 2021.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Check it all out on our glimmering new website at</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">www.AmericanDuchess.com</a></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="484" data-original-width="1500" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhllFR6H6yYwgYBTNn79yZRLU1-1y89rVTl7-nkD6aqPmLpffovpBY-deUgeSlMP_yK9lDnm7CbUhVxlTtkzn2GiOF6HtoB7D-BCOeNVFlcsddI01I9kZu25CPNUXFzdTFiREhi4HNcxemf/w640-h206/londoner-collage-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Londoner Oxfords - our most popular shoe of all time, now in 3 colors<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1500" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0dVZ2ZxAAHLmcznm_SK6jjgnRcl4VrWGg_UoIi9f9bshdDZ9Epi03_z9e50nOUX-4s_tDugMKL0LubuA4h_NlSpt5kKzcVqonnZeosSrlmI7oGACMdiBIt0hV28vKylxJ-fJQ6eGk5Tw/w640-h510/bernadette-comp-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Beautiful Bernadette Oxfords designed in collaboration with Bernadette Banner<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="833" data-original-width="1200" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl2UOeHmm8zu-TEvqXwwdbBbYavUOSdDfhED1qbI1UelLleFqFLggVdAA3K7lPHU92EIR8GHxyUzC0loDs2Bo6uHcMZsKb5nvX33aEawWCjwP5MliDQKaiTLwTOyIdoVQ3E4POJIBhd2XD/w640-h444/gibson-comp-fw20.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Classic Gibson Edwardian Shoes - just so practical and comfortable, and now in more colors too<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new"><img border="0" data-original-height="496" data-original-width="2000" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI513Q50fzTy65iGcsC37NCFshB1Mckaqo5fs0Aee0m1EbWAYzWkE18Iufg1xMEgVax_FGYK-XPMor-3AHJxoYb1-wzM5Rm1uwr1uYVVI2dnuyUdz4QeQ-ML9MrMWUYVLX9V4JFeTA1AOC/w640-h158/tango-collage-wide.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/new">Tango Boots - the sexiest granny boots of all time.<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7953319607326764763.post-87939917496420455052020-08-27T08:00:00.000-07:002020-08-27T08:00:00.223-07:00American Duchess Shoes Made in Portugal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="940" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fGgEq4rdxi2BuTOonG4is0ZQy3FEzBi3EC01zNQx-62SfEG_lqCaiyCvaD8gY6xphVsZR63qK6aeCEUra77HPsa80pKJXLJlsSaVK-O0fiLnLPLsvFGxWSoRHjTcKXlNO45Hd9wdrLda/s640/made-in-portugal-banner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This season marks the first collection of <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">American Duchess shoes made in Portugal</a>! We're pretty excited about this and want to share a bit of behind the scenes.<br />
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In February, in The BeforeTimes, Nicole, Chris, Matt, and I traveled to Portugal to meet with several footwear factories and hopefully find a good fit (lol). Portugal has a long shoemaking tradition and is well-known for excellent quality, particularly with leather goods.<br />
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We met with three shoe factories and learned a lot. It's always fascinating to see into a working production facility and observe the many steps it takes to create just one pair of shoes. Factories can differ quite a lot, too - some have a lot of specialized machinery while others still do much of the work by hand.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyONs061HDjcWenty96YdKmCqJLfud6mIR_4FNUhquL29QWR_7qeDnYm30rAWtlWDdPZHB-s2UTn9BeqVXs_0Nyjc7NcIQ_iAlvMIeEYeRX_GTndO0ZsKhqRMOLWUfAW8GfyAwW4UFuIlZ/s640/portugal-trip-2020-w-8.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">These are leather cutting stamps for larger production runs.</a></td></tr>
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Of course, it's no secret that Europe has been shut down for most of 2020. In our little world this has caused delays with sampling and getting ready for our first order, but we have teamed up with a fantastic factory, and we're so happy to present to you the first European-made American Duchess shoes:<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">Bernadette</a></b> - Eyecatching Edwardian/1920s oxfords designed in collaboration with Bernadette Banner. These two-toned beauties have 2 inch French heels and come in five colorways, something for everyone!<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">Gibson</a></b> - Our classic Edwardian/1920s teardrop tie design with 2 inch French heels. Now in four colors including oxblood red and green.<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">Tango</a></b> - One of our vault styles, back by popular demand - the sexy lace-up Edwardian/1920s Tango boots with 3 inch French heels, available in black, red, green, and ocean blue.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="397" data-original-width="1600" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMLwsKDXzMLEYGtMGW55Uop0ClMKLgvkBftupoMsqtreyH-MQtyW7b0MJ5PQnmT9TBSHQzCB7A4xDT_aDDcoiEP11eBZvsVEiynunzr7NmsVOHRboraaqzRrZZW6vhytrB5NSih2wieuP5/s640/tango-collage-wide.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">Tango Boots in four gorgeous colors</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="1140" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjix8KED4Z2QLlF0A3fRsYvWPT4VQEdJqunAuktlsKg9EmMZW_Fu8xrYG0m2NIF951Ypq6GJO9soE3n_Ga46ZStwrjOXOsN6XlXeUKKb7z12UT8a-k1rwTfONave1JwS8eSjN6ZBbR9Q7k2/s640/bernadette-comp-w-type.jpg" width="560" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">The already infamous Bernadette Oxfords in five colors</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZ2LsB8DwoknVigqcbUbHQFZ7KK98EZFOBRiSa58bC7cw6kDooYvaE6uZIaFha8sfxIWqe8XbxOkdPacD2gR64AmUa-Q2ct6CBAhjY7rMQiHOY02SyX42z-PAy0Yp4XLnuY41oBASw9ox/s640/gibson-edwardian-shoes-black-of-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">Classic Gibsons - black, cognac, oxblood, and green available.</a></td></tr>
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I've gotten quite a few questions from our European customers asking if shipping/customs will be easier when buying the new shoes made in Portugal. Currently we still have to import them to the United States and warehouse them here, but we are working towards a much better European fulfillment solution as fast as we can. We're hoping to make this big improvement sometime next year, pending world events.<br />
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Thank you for coming on this journey with us through all of these years. It's been quite a road, but we're pretty stoked about this next move. We can offer more colors and sizes than ever before. We hope you like these changes as well!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5ksJ7cCCwucLyTD-9Zq_PRM3ZdAZHCpqCDaDH-Wjj40Zdr1ZEU4-UyUsCDmTTxCthtdKXKo-qG-sbLXlIEPfwmVBr1SGBidssGZGtxpubQUxFAw02983R4G7FKf3UmM8suK5no4mfVnt/s640/portugal-trip-2020-w-35.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">Partial Shoe Team doing Shoe Things in Shoe Places</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgCSksIK0DYjTZeL9M8l1nEa4yq8CjXUwdmuz492Cru8nC0oUilqxwbROwu2cNAo3a2q1k4mtOOvY0L_Q1zRmwS-Uh6FLRaMSabfXBhebaRZ1ejaFBskqbqeIhhJqI5l-p6Dih5JPHQyXe/s640/portugal-trip-2020-w-12.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/made-in-portugal">A wall of heels at our heel manufacturer - of course none of these are ours! We have to make all our heels custom because oldey-timey-curvy shapes aren't en vogue.</a></td></tr>
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<br />Lauren Stowellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00462200065542930752noreply@blogger.com9