Showing posts with label 1790 Robe Royaliste. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1790 Robe Royaliste. Show all posts

Friday, May 24, 2013

1790s Musings and Inspirations

I'm back to square one with what to wear to Maggie's wedding in October.  (Nevermind my own wedding, I've got that one figured out, haha)  My ORANGE! sari dress just...no, so now I'm bimbling around back where I'm more comfortable - the 1790s.

Is it totally wrong to wear a dark color to a Regency wedding?  I'm too old for typical Regency white (not my style anyway), and have been partial to black, olive green, purple, and chocolate brown lately.  Silk velvet has my attention, too...

Bah, I can't even sew right now! (buried sewing machine, new sewing room in utter chaos, flying monkeys stole my scissors...)  .... but here's some inspo...

chemise a plis (chemise with pleats) - November 1792 Journal des Luxus und der Moden
Mme Jean-François Heurtier, née Marie-Victoire Jobbé, vers 1790
Dress, Britain, 1795-1800. National Museums of Scotland.
Frances Villiers, Countess of Jersey by Thomas Beach (auctioned by Sotheby's)
Vigee-Lebrun self-portrait
Jean-Baptiste Jacques Augustin 1792
Antoine Vestier, Portrait of Mademoiselle Rouillé, three-quarter-length, at the pianoforte
1794 James Earl (American artist, 1761-1796) Mrs. John Rogers (Elizabeth Rodman)
Marie Louise Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun. Marie-Louise of Bourbon-Sicily. 1790.
Undated (but probably 1792) by Ann Frankland Lewis
I happily already have a pattern for a chemise style 1790s gown, something I fiddled with last Fall, with a mockup made out of the-worst-poly-taffeta-ever.  I've been meaning to make it up for real-real in something lovely...perhaps this shall be it!

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

V270: The "Robe Royaliste" at Nevada Museum of Art


Last night I had another opportunity to model for the costume painting class at the Nevada Museum of Art.  I wore my new "Robe Royaliste," a dress I made, erm, a couple months ago, but hadn't had the chance to wear.

One good thing about wearing a new gown to sit still in for three hours is that you learn very quickly what needs to be adjusted.  I'm really happy with how this test-dress turned out, *but* the armscyes are too small!  It felt like someone was sticking a butterknife in my armpits all night!  Easy fix, thank goodness, and certainly one to be made before wearing this gown for a full day.  The sleeves are also too tight through the elbows...not such an easy fix, but I'll see if i can fenagle any extra room out of the seam allowances..they only need about 1/4" extra to be far more comfortable.

Anywho, I hope you enjoy these photos, as much as I enjoyed watching the artists work :-)

Monday, September 3, 2012

V247: Making a 1790s Gainsborough Hat

Yesterday I made a Gainsborough hat to go with the new purple 1790s "Robe Royaliste".  I researched many a fine fashion plate from Dames a la Mode, and raided the craft store for basic supplies and any decorations that might work.  Here was my swag...


Wednesday, August 29, 2012

V242: 1790s Robe Royaliste: Almost Done!

I had intended to bust out this giant purple chemise style gown quickly, but then between being mad sick and then lazy, it's taken me *this* long to get it done!

Needs a bit of a press through the skirt, but otherwise...
 And it's still not done!

I still need to do the button loops and attach the self-covered buttons at the corners of the front piece.  I also need to make a proper sash and acquire one very large black hat, complete with very large black feathers.

The gathered front bust is *huge*, very puffy, very giant-1790s-puff.
Then it will be done. :-)
The design of the back came from the green/gold gaulle in The Duchess.
The construction of this gown wasn't so bad - at least it didn't come out horribly short-waisted this time.  I did have issue with my sleeves, as usual, and there was fiddlage with the center back seam and shoulder strap placement, also as usual.  For a first go at a gaulle, though, and a test for a future gown made in silk, I'm really quite happy with how this monstrosity has turned out.

The sleeves were troublesome - they didn't come out with the fullness like in The Duchess, but there is a little pleating.  I set them the 18th century way with the top-stitched shoulder strap.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

V225: Starting the 1790s "Robe Royaliste"

Before Costume College, I was making plans for a new 1790s gown in purple taffeta, called the "Robe Royaliste."  I decided on a chemise style like the lovely green/gold gown in The Duchess:


I've never done a gown like this before, but I enjoy patterning and trying to figure stuff out, and was eager to use the knowledge gained in Jennifer R's sleeve-fitting class I took at Costume College.

I was also eager to try out my first standardized body block I cobbled together after having so many fit issues with the Parisian Gown.  It was a combination of a stays pattern drafted from The Custom Corset Pattern Generator, and an old Simplicity Renaissance faire bodice that somehow magically fit me.  The paper block fit my dress form, at least...
I added an additional inch to the shoulder strap, to drop the waist and open the armscye a bit.

A quick muslin toile also fit, along with my first solo-drafted shaped sleeve (what a bitch to draft, honestly, but I learned a lot)...

The gown is a drop-front, with a smooth back, and a gathered front panel that buttons or pins at the neckline and also the waist.  Wary of slicing up an expensive silk, I'm testing out my patterning hubris with a cheap taffeta I found on sale for $1.99.
It actually looks how it's supposed to look so far... I are pleased!
Most of this is pinned together here, but I'm surprised at how quickly this gown is moving along (famous last words?).  I'm beginning to hope/believe that perhaps there will be no horrible fit or pain-causing issues, and it may even be possible to have range of motion through the shoulders (zomg!?).
Skirt and sleeve just pinned on to give an idea.
So here's hoping for luck through the rest of this project. :-)

Saturday, July 21, 2012

V203: New Dress Design: Robe Royaliste

I don't have enough 18th century gowns.  I have jackets and things, and I do love jackets, but when it comes to full gowns, I have, like, one (soon to be two).

So time for a new one!  I found some lavender taffeta online and thought it would make a great 1790s roundgown, paired with a huge black silk sash, and giant black Gainsborough hat.  I'm not settled on the style, but here are my initial sketches:

This gown will be "Robe Royaliste," if we were in France in 1790.  Both the purple and the black were royalist colors, and add in a little green or yellow and the statement would be obvious!

I've been perusing fashion plates from Dames a la Mode, to find some inspo.  All of these would also be Royalist gowns, in France, and will help decide a final design for my Robe Royaliste:

Journal des Luxus, April 1792.  I adore this, the gown, the hat, the belt.  I like the interesting combo of redingote and gathered front, like a gaulle.
Journal des Luxus, 1791
Undated (but probably 1792) by Ann Frankland Lewis
Other inspiration....
From Kyoto Costume Institute - not a fashion plate, but one of my favorite 1790s gowns, and would be a savvy design for what I'm thinking.
George Romney Unknown lady, ca. 1786. - with the redingote collar and button cuffs.  The front looks gathered...?  A little earlier than my target dates.
From LACMA, the back of their stunning 1790s redingote.  I adore the huge mannish collar(s) on this one.
Marie Louise Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun. Marie-Louise of Bourbon-Sicily. 1790 .  I like the idea of redingote details, but I want the skirt to be closed.  The gathered-bust and long sleeve gaulle styles are also enticing, if the taffeta I bought will work that way.

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

V200: Redingote Portraits of Win

I love the 1780s and 90s, particularly the mannish styles, like the Redingote.  Something about those big collars and buttons, paired with big-ass Gainsborough hats - YUM!
Lady in Light Blue Gown by Jean-Baptiste Soyer, circa 1790
Maria de Ron von Breda
Portrait of Anna Lopukhina-Gagarina - 1792 - Jean-Louis Voille
Jean-Louis Voille Portrait of Elisaveta Alexandrovna Demidov 1791-92

I ordered some lavender taffeta to pair with black accessories, to make a 1790s something-or-other, probably a sweet redingote, I'm thinking. :-)

'Course, all this after all the other things currently on the cutting room floor. Ha!